HI I have a 91 Cavalier Z24 and need to get a new CV joint on right side and new struts....just wondering about how much that would cost. I do live in Canada so I dont know if that will change the price at all.|||CV joint would roughly be about 150 to 215, all depends on brand they use, but they just replace the whole thing.
Struts would roughly be about 45 to 60 per corner. Again all depends on quality and type they use.
They will probably do a wheel alignment also an inspection.
So let%26#039;s say, 50 per corner, and 175 for CV, so 375 for parts, if no other parts are needed.
It would take about 20 min to 40 min per conrder for the struts, and about 45 min to 1.5 hr for the CV Joint, all depends if any complications happen, bolts snaps, blah blah.
I dont know what the average going rate is per shop, but I%26#039;ve seen them range from 65 to 125 per hour.
So let%26#039;s say they are 85 per hour, so 160 for the struts for the labour, and another hour for the strut, so you are looking at 245 for labour.
Parts 375 + Labour 245 = 620.00 + applicable taxes and waste charges.
Remember this is just estimates I am pulling out of the air and so I dont know where in Canada, and how much different mechanics costs.|||Here in Detroit that would run you $400.00 to $600.00 depending on whether any additional parts like strut mounts or CV boots need to be replaced as well.|||$550 total, but I%26#039;m not sure that includes a wheel realignment if needed which is sixty dollars more. Make sure to have the upper strut isolator bearings replaced at the same time.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Daewoo lanos cv joint repair?
is it hard to change a cv joint on a lanos |||if it is a real CV joint I%26#039;d get a manual from a library and read up on it before i tackled it. Some are much easier than others. You probably mean replacing it right? Taking the actual joint apart is best left to guys who know what they are doing. |||me no - you maybe
buy part look at it
then do it - less then 2 hours with right tools|||Nope. But I would be more worried about finding parts considering they stopped selling Daewoo many years ago here in the states. A good mechanic can do it in a reasonable matter of time.
buy part look at it
then do it - less then 2 hours with right tools|||Nope. But I would be more worried about finding parts considering they stopped selling Daewoo many years ago here in the states. A good mechanic can do it in a reasonable matter of time.
What is the estimate i will waste if i take my car to change the cv joint.?
Depending on the car most shops won%26#039;t charge you for an estimate on your cv Joints...
The normal cost at any shop is between 180 and 200 dollars.
below is a site that can lead you in the right direction|||i had to replace my cv joints..they were about gone..and it was leaking fluid..
its a must fix and shouldnt cost you much..i think it cost us 100 on my civic.
i think it can affect your brakes too..not sure|||is it a car or a truck? what year ..model? They aren%26#039;t all the same|||Most are about $100-$180 per side. depends on the garage you take it to and the make of the car.
The normal cost at any shop is between 180 and 200 dollars.
below is a site that can lead you in the right direction|||i had to replace my cv joints..they were about gone..and it was leaking fluid..
its a must fix and shouldnt cost you much..i think it cost us 100 on my civic.
i think it can affect your brakes too..not sure|||is it a car or a truck? what year ..model? They aren%26#039;t all the same|||Most are about $100-$180 per side. depends on the garage you take it to and the make of the car.
How do you change the cv joint?
on a honda civic DX 88 i need step on how to do that|||AutoZone actually supplies this information online.
The link below starts with the halfshaft, but includes the CV joint / boot link. You%26#039;ll need the information from both:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
.
The link below starts with the halfshaft, but includes the CV joint / boot link. You%26#039;ll need the information from both:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
.
I am changing wheel bearing on 2005 Impala. Stuck on getting cv joint clamp off. Any suggestions?
Ok, first of all, why are you taking the CV joint clamp off? You don%26#039;t have to touch it to remove a bearing.
Normal way to remove a wheel bearing on the front of a GM car:
Remove tire
Remove caliper and bracket
Hang caliper and bracket from something other than the brake hose
Remove the rotor
Remove the axle nut
Disconnect ABS connector
Remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing to spindle
Remove bearing assy
Install new bearing assy
Install 3 bolts and tighten evenly
Install axle nut and torque to spec (usually 160 ft/lbs)
Connect ABS connector
Install rotor
Install brake caliper and bracket
Install wheel and torque bolts to 100 ft/lbs
Test drive|||Use some diagonals and cut it.|||you have to cut it,go to the parts store and get a new zip-lock clamp,its real simple to use,good luck
Normal way to remove a wheel bearing on the front of a GM car:
Remove tire
Remove caliper and bracket
Hang caliper and bracket from something other than the brake hose
Remove the rotor
Remove the axle nut
Disconnect ABS connector
Remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing to spindle
Remove bearing assy
Install new bearing assy
Install 3 bolts and tighten evenly
Install axle nut and torque to spec (usually 160 ft/lbs)
Connect ABS connector
Install rotor
Install brake caliper and bracket
Install wheel and torque bolts to 100 ft/lbs
Test drive|||Use some diagonals and cut it.|||you have to cut it,go to the parts store and get a new zip-lock clamp,its real simple to use,good luck
How do you change a cv joint in a rover416i (1998)?
This is a fairly simple job to do:-
First identify which joint needs to be changed (Inner or Outer)
Jack up the car, remove the wheel, undo the big nut in the centre of the drive hub, remove the brake calliper, disconnect all the interconnecting tie rods and tracking control arms, remove the drive hub.
If the outer CV joint is to be removed you can try to remove it from the drive shaft with drive shaft still attached to the car. Normally the CV joint has a spring clip retaining the CV joint in place, use a soft hammer to strike the rear of the CV joint.
If its the inner CV joint you will need to pull the drive shaft out of the gear box, have a container there to catch the oil that will leak out.
Once the shaft is out you can strip the CV joint down and remove the CV from the shaft.
Re-fitting is the reverse of the above, remember to use the correct CV grease and use lots of it.
First identify which joint needs to be changed (Inner or Outer)
Jack up the car, remove the wheel, undo the big nut in the centre of the drive hub, remove the brake calliper, disconnect all the interconnecting tie rods and tracking control arms, remove the drive hub.
If the outer CV joint is to be removed you can try to remove it from the drive shaft with drive shaft still attached to the car. Normally the CV joint has a spring clip retaining the CV joint in place, use a soft hammer to strike the rear of the CV joint.
If its the inner CV joint you will need to pull the drive shaft out of the gear box, have a container there to catch the oil that will leak out.
Once the shaft is out you can strip the CV joint down and remove the CV from the shaft.
Re-fitting is the reverse of the above, remember to use the correct CV grease and use lots of it.
How do i change the inside cv joint on my 86gt toyota celica?
First thing to do is remove the axle complete from the car,remove hub nut,remove lower a-frame ball joint,cv joint is held in the trans. with a lock ring so just use a large screw driver or pry bar ,wedge it between the joint and trans. and pop it out. Lift out the whole axle assembly and lay it on the bench with the bad end in a vise. remove the c/v boot and hold the c/v joint straight and using a hammer tap/hit the joint as it is only held by a wire like snap ring. install a new c/v boot and re-install tapping the new joint on using a brass mallot so not to damage spline on new joint,reinstall new c/v boot and grease with new clamps,position the axle back in place and with a thrust snap it back into the transmission,reinstall through hub and using a pry bar pull down on the lower A-Frame to reinstall the lower ball joint,reinstall with new hub nut and tighten to manuf. specs. Hope this helps you out.
What is a ballpark cost to change driver side cv joint and yoke on 2004 chevy z71? in new jersey?
i have the truck at the local dealer thinking they would have access to better knowledge of the truck and parts. i know they charge more for labor than other shops. any answers are appreciated.|||About 500 bucks. That%26#039;s parts and labor.
What happens if you dont change your cv joints.?
I have a bad cv joint on my car, if i were to not fix it, aside from snapping and making alot of noise what other consequences would i have ?|||the cv joint is what connects the transmission to your tires, therefore spinning them and also turning them (when you steer), if they break, you can%26#039;t turn and your engine%26#039;s power won%26#039;t be transferred to the wheel|||It will soon snap leaving you with no drive - not nice when overtaking in the fast lane on a motoway etc!
Replace it asap or sooner.|||i was driving on the highway when one broke the car changed lanes all by itself|||The bearings will come apart when you reach the total failure point and the axle will no longer deliver power to the wheel. You will be on the side of the road. Other than that, nothing.|||That would be the major consequence.
After it breaks, if you were to apply the gas (not knowing), you will also damage the differential.
Good Luck...|||lock up with you and throw you off the road.|||Not replacing a failing constant velocity joint could have catastrophic consequences. That little bugger could bust up into a thousand little chunks at 70 miles per hour, and you could have total loss of control (we%26#039;re talking about STEERING here), which would put you at a major disadvantage compared with everything whizzing past you as you spin violently off the road.
Other than that, not much.|||they just give out on you, i had it happen last year. had to walk for 2 miles with my two year old in my hands.
Replace it asap or sooner.|||i was driving on the highway when one broke the car changed lanes all by itself|||The bearings will come apart when you reach the total failure point and the axle will no longer deliver power to the wheel. You will be on the side of the road. Other than that, nothing.|||That would be the major consequence.
After it breaks, if you were to apply the gas (not knowing), you will also damage the differential.
Good Luck...|||lock up with you and throw you off the road.|||Not replacing a failing constant velocity joint could have catastrophic consequences. That little bugger could bust up into a thousand little chunks at 70 miles per hour, and you could have total loss of control (we%26#039;re talking about STEERING here), which would put you at a major disadvantage compared with everything whizzing past you as you spin violently off the road.
Other than that, not much.|||they just give out on you, i had it happen last year. had to walk for 2 miles with my two year old in my hands.
Opel Corsa 1.4 (Vauxhall in other countries) CV Joint problems?
Hi All
I hope there is someone here able to assist me. I have a Corsa Cheetah (Lite shape) and tried changing my CV joint. When I was done the car was fine as I drove it up and down the driveway. Later that day I wanted to go out and reversed my car down the driveway and out the gate. I put the car in firts gear and as I tried to go the car stood still and the engine was running in first gear.
I towed the car back into my yard and jacked it up. The car was now in neautral and I was unable to spin the wheel (Left Wheel). It was not as hooked as if in gear but one would not be able to turn the wheel.
I found thet the wheel on the other side was turning
Is there anything that I might have done wrong. Im no expert when it come to CV%26#039;S but was not willing to pay through mu neck to have it done
Any help please
Rhowen|||Did you remove the entire shaft to replace the joint? If so, have you pushed it fully home into the gearbox? Is the replacement joint the right one (correct shaft size) and were the splines a close match?
Without seeing it the problem, it%26#039;s a little hard to guess.|||PUSH the Shaft all the way in so it connects to the gearbox capeesh!!!
thats what happens when u try to B cheeep :)
I hope there is someone here able to assist me. I have a Corsa Cheetah (Lite shape) and tried changing my CV joint. When I was done the car was fine as I drove it up and down the driveway. Later that day I wanted to go out and reversed my car down the driveway and out the gate. I put the car in firts gear and as I tried to go the car stood still and the engine was running in first gear.
I towed the car back into my yard and jacked it up. The car was now in neautral and I was unable to spin the wheel (Left Wheel). It was not as hooked as if in gear but one would not be able to turn the wheel.
I found thet the wheel on the other side was turning
Is there anything that I might have done wrong. Im no expert when it come to CV%26#039;S but was not willing to pay through mu neck to have it done
Any help please
Rhowen|||Did you remove the entire shaft to replace the joint? If so, have you pushed it fully home into the gearbox? Is the replacement joint the right one (correct shaft size) and were the splines a close match?
Without seeing it the problem, it%26#039;s a little hard to guess.|||PUSH the Shaft all the way in so it connects to the gearbox capeesh!!!
thats what happens when u try to B cheeep :)
Wen changing cv joints. is it best to change only damaged one, or fix both at same time and why pls anyone ta.
it is much better to just get a exchange axle,,with 2 new joint,s,,you also get a lifetime warranty with about all of the now day,s,,and it,s a lot less messy too,,changing those thing,s can be a big mess ,,hope this help you some.|||just the damagd one ......if it aint broke then dont fix it|||If one is damaged, chances are the other isn%26#039;t far behind. Check the condition of the other - but consider changing them both at the same time.|||you need to change both just like tire in pairs|||When you take your car in, most of the time they will tell you to fix both of them at the same time. If you are doing it at home, I think you should change both of them. My husband changes a lot of that stuff and he always changes both. That way, we don%26#039;t have to worry about the other one going bad later and then we will know the date that they both were put on. But, if you don%26#039;t need to do it with both now, then that is completely up to you.|||The work is a lot less(depending on the car) if the entire axle is replaced than just a boot.
Normally, the boot and adding more grease is the standard procedure, but I%26#039;ve found that installing a completely overhauled axles will give piece of mind for the owner and the mechanic. When they%26#039;re overhauled, all the bearings, seals, and grease are replaced so nothing should go wrong unless your technician made a mistake or there happens to be a manufacture defect.
Parts are cheaper by replacing just a boot, but most cars I%26#039;ve seen have had more damage than the boot, usually just the cv bearings. This happens from driving the car with the boot torn or open for some period of time.
My advice: Change the entire axle. It will save you time and it%26#039;s only a $10-$40 difference from a boot and a completely overhauled axle.|||You gotta go with both of them if you can afford it. Make sure that you have a proffesional mechanic do the work at a shop.
Normally, the boot and adding more grease is the standard procedure, but I%26#039;ve found that installing a completely overhauled axles will give piece of mind for the owner and the mechanic. When they%26#039;re overhauled, all the bearings, seals, and grease are replaced so nothing should go wrong unless your technician made a mistake or there happens to be a manufacture defect.
Parts are cheaper by replacing just a boot, but most cars I%26#039;ve seen have had more damage than the boot, usually just the cv bearings. This happens from driving the car with the boot torn or open for some period of time.
My advice: Change the entire axle. It will save you time and it%26#039;s only a $10-$40 difference from a boot and a completely overhauled axle.|||You gotta go with both of them if you can afford it. Make sure that you have a proffesional mechanic do the work at a shop.
I change the cv joint but theres still noise honda civic 94?
Leave your husband/boyfriend home.|||More info please...What type of noise and when do you hear it?|||did u change both of them?? or probably there is a loose bolt or sumthin like that?? or the bearing may have been damaged|||If its a clicking noise still you may have installed it wrong.. did you replace the whole joint? or jsut the boot? or did you repack it? There are many variables here....|||there is no chance
Do we have to change the whole axle if cv joint shows some damage?
I have a hyundai elantra 96 havaing a clicking sound when you turn left or right and i notice that all the axle boot are torn and leaking grease. the mechanic told me that i must change the axle. is he correct?|||it%26#039;s cheaper just to replace the whole axel although you don%26#039;t have to. The reason why is CV joints aren%26#039;t like the old universal joints that you could just tap out the old one and tap in a new one for about 16 bucks with CV joints you have to inspect everything, replace the parts, get new boots grease it up and then install it.|||*** no he%26#039;s full of it,you need new boots and CV bearings,aint nothing wrong with the shafts,he%26#039;s trying to make more $ he%26#039;s a liare,i know my spelling sucks.|||Well he might not be a liar....and he might be giving a good sugestion.....here%26#039;s why:
The Constant Velocity joints are gone, because the boots cracked, the grease all spewed out and dirt and grime got into the bearings.
You need:
New CV joints
CV boots...
Sometimes better and more economical to purchase a complete axle assembly and install.|||It%26#039;s usually easier and therefore cheaper to replace the whole axle as an assembly rather than disassemble it to replace a joint and boot. Some are not even sold separately. Call around to other shops for quotes and see what they say....look into all the options you have, pricing out new versus rebuilt and replacing a complete axle cost versus the joint(s) and boot(s).|||REMANUFACTORED AXLES ARE CHEAPER THAN THE JOINTS, AND ALSO IT TAKES ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO 30 TO GET THE AXLE, THEN REPLACE IT...RATHER THAT TEAR DOWN YOUR OLD AXLE AND PUT NEW INNER OR OUTER JOINT AND BOOT KITS...MESSY JOB..JUST GET AXLE.....CHANGE AXLE|||You don%26#039;t necessarily have to change the whole axle but it is sure easier and less expensive if you do. Just changing a cv boot and a cv joint take more time then just changing the whole axle itself. The money you save in labor will speak for itself. Besides, a rebuilt or new axle has a warranty. You can%26#039;t go wrong. Good luck.|||gotspeed=she%26#039;s right it is cheaper.......... butt @ss for John%26#039;s D(ick)answer hes an @zz
The Constant Velocity joints are gone, because the boots cracked, the grease all spewed out and dirt and grime got into the bearings.
You need:
New CV joints
CV boots...
Sometimes better and more economical to purchase a complete axle assembly and install.|||It%26#039;s usually easier and therefore cheaper to replace the whole axle as an assembly rather than disassemble it to replace a joint and boot. Some are not even sold separately. Call around to other shops for quotes and see what they say....look into all the options you have, pricing out new versus rebuilt and replacing a complete axle cost versus the joint(s) and boot(s).|||REMANUFACTORED AXLES ARE CHEAPER THAN THE JOINTS, AND ALSO IT TAKES ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO 30 TO GET THE AXLE, THEN REPLACE IT...RATHER THAT TEAR DOWN YOUR OLD AXLE AND PUT NEW INNER OR OUTER JOINT AND BOOT KITS...MESSY JOB..JUST GET AXLE.....CHANGE AXLE|||You don%26#039;t necessarily have to change the whole axle but it is sure easier and less expensive if you do. Just changing a cv boot and a cv joint take more time then just changing the whole axle itself. The money you save in labor will speak for itself. Besides, a rebuilt or new axle has a warranty. You can%26#039;t go wrong. Good luck.|||gotspeed=she%26#039;s right it is cheaper.......... butt @ss for John%26#039;s D(ick)answer hes an @zz
How do i change a drivers side CV joint in a 2001 Ford ZX2?
Trying to pull out of transfer case.|||Typically a pry bar or tire iron can be used to pry the CV shaft loose from the transfer case. As mentioned, previously, there is a lock ring to prevent it from coming out easily, but a swift jerk with a pry bar will allow you to get the shaft out.
Here are instructions for an older ZX2, but typically the process is similar.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
Check out figure 14 for what I am trying to explain above.|||There are locking rings inside the transfer case. You need to take the face plate off, drain, remove locking rings. If there is no clicking when you turn or clunking when you start out... dont bother. The joints are ok|||Inesrt key. Start motor and drive to Ford dealer.
Here are instructions for an older ZX2, but typically the process is similar.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
Check out figure 14 for what I am trying to explain above.|||There are locking rings inside the transfer case. You need to take the face plate off, drain, remove locking rings. If there is no clicking when you turn or clunking when you start out... dont bother. The joints are ok|||Inesrt key. Start motor and drive to Ford dealer.
Im trying to change the cv joint on my corolla 1.3 and im having a little trouble getting the part off?
i have been told that i may have to cut it off but does anyone have any other tips|||Hi There, How you doing?
From what you have said, I assume you will already have removed that joint from the drive flange and that drive shaft and cv joint will still be attached to the car via the gearbox.
depending on design there may be an internal clip that if you apply a force similar to that of a hammer with a sharp blow to the rear of the cv joint it will come off, some others have a clip that will have to be opened using cv joint pliers and then knock the joint of gently, If you don%26#039;t have pliers then if you get a screwdriver and use it to open the clip, leave the screwdriver in the clip and the joint will come of as described. Difficult to describe really but at this time of night without any source of light it will be difficult to see properly but look for the clip at the cv joint, no clip at the joint then it will be internal and the joint should knock off, quick tip, it can be difficult to hold shaft and knock of joint, get 1 of your mates to tighten a pair of molegrips to the shaft as far back from the joint and he can hold grips while steadying shaft and you can knock of joint.
Good Luck!
Cheers|||your best bet is to replace the whole half shaft les work alot easeir
remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. then remove the axle nut tie rod end
remove the nut holding the ball joint to the spindle and pry the botom a-arm down the pull forward on the spindle and pull the axle out of the spindle the pry on the other end of the axle out of the trany then reverse the procedure to put it back in when repacing the cv joint you have to do the same thing plus some|||NO... its got a circlip... its retained in the hub by a powerful crescent circlip... clean away the grease and youll see it. its either fixed into a groove, (remove it with circlip pliers...or get a piece of wood and a hammer, hit the wood..not the hub... it%26#039;ll fly off...
job done.|||Yeah you can cut it off, but then how do you fit in the new one? I think that you have to remove the wheel drum.|||assuming your changing your cv axle, it is probably retained with a spring clip inside the trans, i use a semi tire iron to pop it out. it is very long but does the job. a quick snap and the axle should pop outif it is stuck in your hub get a air hammer and hammer it out|||THE CV JOINT HAS A CIRCLIP INSIDE HOLDING IT ON TO THE SHAFT EXTRACT THE CLIP AND KNOCK THE CV JOINT AWAY WITH A COPPER HAMMER YOU MAY HAVE TO HIT IT HARD ..GOOD LUCK|||shannon b. has the right idea ,but if it is the passenger side halfshaft that is bad you must first remove the drivers side halfshaft to be able to get the passenger side out|||Depends on what you need to do. The axle nut needs to come off and the shaft removed with a puller. The balljoint will have to be separated from the steering knuckle, and the old halfshaft pried out of the tranaxle. I wouldn%26#039;t try and fix the CV joint yourself. Save yourself some headache and take that shaft in for a new one. Many parts aren%26#039;t available to you and I, and they can be a pain to get together right. I%26#039;ve done many of these, and this isn%26#039;t fun but still doable. Remember to put the car on jackstands and not use a jack to hold up the car when you%26#039;re working on it.|||Remove the old cv boot by cutting it of, then clean out the grease that you can get to on the inside of the cv were it joins the shaft , there is a circlip it has to be expanded to release the joint you will need circlip pliers that open as you close the handles , when you have the clip open you userly have to tap the cv joint off so you may need another pair of hands , dont forget to slide the new boot on before puting on the new cv
From what you have said, I assume you will already have removed that joint from the drive flange and that drive shaft and cv joint will still be attached to the car via the gearbox.
depending on design there may be an internal clip that if you apply a force similar to that of a hammer with a sharp blow to the rear of the cv joint it will come off, some others have a clip that will have to be opened using cv joint pliers and then knock the joint of gently, If you don%26#039;t have pliers then if you get a screwdriver and use it to open the clip, leave the screwdriver in the clip and the joint will come of as described. Difficult to describe really but at this time of night without any source of light it will be difficult to see properly but look for the clip at the cv joint, no clip at the joint then it will be internal and the joint should knock off, quick tip, it can be difficult to hold shaft and knock of joint, get 1 of your mates to tighten a pair of molegrips to the shaft as far back from the joint and he can hold grips while steadying shaft and you can knock of joint.
Good Luck!
Cheers|||your best bet is to replace the whole half shaft les work alot easeir
remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. then remove the axle nut tie rod end
remove the nut holding the ball joint to the spindle and pry the botom a-arm down the pull forward on the spindle and pull the axle out of the spindle the pry on the other end of the axle out of the trany then reverse the procedure to put it back in when repacing the cv joint you have to do the same thing plus some|||NO... its got a circlip... its retained in the hub by a powerful crescent circlip... clean away the grease and youll see it. its either fixed into a groove, (remove it with circlip pliers...or get a piece of wood and a hammer, hit the wood..not the hub... it%26#039;ll fly off...
job done.|||Yeah you can cut it off, but then how do you fit in the new one? I think that you have to remove the wheel drum.|||assuming your changing your cv axle, it is probably retained with a spring clip inside the trans, i use a semi tire iron to pop it out. it is very long but does the job. a quick snap and the axle should pop outif it is stuck in your hub get a air hammer and hammer it out|||THE CV JOINT HAS A CIRCLIP INSIDE HOLDING IT ON TO THE SHAFT EXTRACT THE CLIP AND KNOCK THE CV JOINT AWAY WITH A COPPER HAMMER YOU MAY HAVE TO HIT IT HARD ..GOOD LUCK|||shannon b. has the right idea ,but if it is the passenger side halfshaft that is bad you must first remove the drivers side halfshaft to be able to get the passenger side out|||Depends on what you need to do. The axle nut needs to come off and the shaft removed with a puller. The balljoint will have to be separated from the steering knuckle, and the old halfshaft pried out of the tranaxle. I wouldn%26#039;t try and fix the CV joint yourself. Save yourself some headache and take that shaft in for a new one. Many parts aren%26#039;t available to you and I, and they can be a pain to get together right. I%26#039;ve done many of these, and this isn%26#039;t fun but still doable. Remember to put the car on jackstands and not use a jack to hold up the car when you%26#039;re working on it.|||Remove the old cv boot by cutting it of, then clean out the grease that you can get to on the inside of the cv were it joins the shaft , there is a circlip it has to be expanded to release the joint you will need circlip pliers that open as you close the handles , when you have the clip open you userly have to tap the cv joint off so you may need another pair of hands , dont forget to slide the new boot on before puting on the new cv
Will I need any specailty tools to change a cv joint in a 96 2.5 L Dodge Stratus?
yes you will need a ball joint separator to help get it out with then you,ll need a pair of clip pliers to help get the joint apart with,other that that a good set of normal metric sockets and wrenches will do the job,the axle just pulls strait out of the transmission,getting it apart is different though.but you will need good sockets and the help of an impact wrench isn%26#039;t to bad to have around either,and good jack stands to set the car on while your working on it,good luck.|||You may want to check the price of a rebuilt half shaft, less work involved replacing the rebuilt unit since you aren%26#039;t taking the CV joint apart which is a real pain in the butt. I replaced the half shaft on my %26#039;90 Dynasty for about $40-45 plus the core.
Definitely use jack stands when under your car!!!!
Definitely use jack stands when under your car!!!!
How do you change a cv joint and boot on a 2002 toyota camry?
4 cylinder xle 4 dr|||DON%26#039;T use a impact gun! the gears to the trans are on the other end of the shaft(unless you have a extra $1%26#039;500). get a repair manual from the dealer not the parts store .it%26#039;s not as hard as you would think to change.|||ITS ACTUALLY EASIER JUST TO CHANGE THE WHOLE 1/2 SHAFT.IF THE BOOT IS TORN YOU HAVE GOTTEN CONTAMINENTS IN THE BOOT,A 1/2 SHAFT AT PEP BOYS ISNT THAT EXPENSIVE LESS HASSLE,you do need an impact gun to take off and reinstall the axle nut.|||Simple.
Jack up and Support the vehicle securely on jack stands.
Take off whichever wheel is where the broken cv joint is.
the is a large nut(32mm) in the center of the rotor assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, retainer and nut(almost always need an impact gun as that nut is TIGHT!!!!)
Now under the Strut assembly there are bolts that hold it to the Steering Knuckle Remove those 2 bolts
Now pull down the control arm and move the the splined portion of the axle out of the spline portion of the hub(center of brake rotor).
Now with the axle carefully try and remove it from the Transmission(have a bucket handy as transmission fluid will go on the floor once it comes out)
If its wedge in there find a good prying tool(cheap pry bars work great) and carefully pry between the transmission and axle until it pops out.
Remove the axle.
Get the new axle and get some good grease and lube the splined portion of the axle going into the transmission(not to much)
This is the hardest part. There is a C-clip on the axle going into the tranmission that is used to keep it in the differential and sometimes they are a bit tricky to get in. So with some careful pushing and thrusting the C-clip should go in
Once its in installation is the reverse of removal
Just put the axle back through the hub and start the nut by hand. Rebolt the Strut back the knuckle and make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards.
With your impact gun tighten the Axle nut(make sure its very Tight!! and get it so you can slide the new cotter pin through after the retainer is on.
Now top off with trans fluid. Align Vehicle and Test Drive.
Hope this helps|||Go to the parts store and pick up the whole thing its much easier than trying to repair the boot you also need a special tool to re-clamp the boot on
Jack up and Support the vehicle securely on jack stands.
Take off whichever wheel is where the broken cv joint is.
the is a large nut(32mm) in the center of the rotor assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, retainer and nut(almost always need an impact gun as that nut is TIGHT!!!!)
Now under the Strut assembly there are bolts that hold it to the Steering Knuckle Remove those 2 bolts
Now pull down the control arm and move the the splined portion of the axle out of the spline portion of the hub(center of brake rotor).
Now with the axle carefully try and remove it from the Transmission(have a bucket handy as transmission fluid will go on the floor once it comes out)
If its wedge in there find a good prying tool(cheap pry bars work great) and carefully pry between the transmission and axle until it pops out.
Remove the axle.
Get the new axle and get some good grease and lube the splined portion of the axle going into the transmission(not to much)
This is the hardest part. There is a C-clip on the axle going into the tranmission that is used to keep it in the differential and sometimes they are a bit tricky to get in. So with some careful pushing and thrusting the C-clip should go in
Once its in installation is the reverse of removal
Just put the axle back through the hub and start the nut by hand. Rebolt the Strut back the knuckle and make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards.
With your impact gun tighten the Axle nut(make sure its very Tight!! and get it so you can slide the new cotter pin through after the retainer is on.
Now top off with trans fluid. Align Vehicle and Test Drive.
Hope this helps|||Go to the parts store and pick up the whole thing its much easier than trying to repair the boot you also need a special tool to re-clamp the boot on
Cv joint help 2000 impala?
Changed cv joint on impala, horrible grinding noise when car is put back into park from drive...no noise in drive|||was that before or after the cv joint was replaced????????|||Sounds like the CV joint is not engaged in the transmission properly. When you put it in drive, the stub shaft starts spinning, and then when you put it in park, the parking pawl RATTTTTTTTTTLES until it locks in.
Make sure you properly engaged the new CV joint on to the shaft coming out of the transmission, it should push in and kinda *click*, though it is not an audible click, more of a feeling. Sounds like the CV shaft isn%26#039;t even on the transmission output shaft anymore.
If the car is still in the air, this is normal if you aren%26#039;t holding your foot on the brake. You need to stop the wheels from spinning BEFORE you put the car in park (using the brakes) or you will get that loud rattle noise. It is the parking pawl, trying to engage. Don%26#039;t worry, it%26#039;s hardened, you haven%26#039;t done any damage at this point.
Make sure you properly engaged the new CV joint on to the shaft coming out of the transmission, it should push in and kinda *click*, though it is not an audible click, more of a feeling. Sounds like the CV shaft isn%26#039;t even on the transmission output shaft anymore.
If the car is still in the air, this is normal if you aren%26#039;t holding your foot on the brake. You need to stop the wheels from spinning BEFORE you put the car in park (using the brakes) or you will get that loud rattle noise. It is the parking pawl, trying to engage. Don%26#039;t worry, it%26#039;s hardened, you haven%26#039;t done any damage at this point.
AaaaaaaI change the cv joint of my honda civic but the clicking sound is still there.?
you think the part I got is defective?|||Could be. Or the other side is clicking. Or there is something wrong with your suspension geometry.|||Which cv joint did you replace? The right one?|||yeah, sounds like the part is faulty|||Hmmm, i thought those Japanese cars were suppose to be better than that.
Buy American.|||Well you may have needed both replaced,- OR the Axel%26#039;s them self%26#039;s need to be replaced! %26quot;not just the Joint%26quot;|||Okay well a few questions first:
Are you certified to do this type of work?
What makes you think you can perform this suspension job without a problem?
Did you use a new axle nut? - you will never get the correct torque if you re-used the old one.
Did you torque the bolt to the proper setting? - do you even know what that setting is?
Are you certain that the cv is the problem? - there are other items that will cause the same sounds|||did you change the right CV joint? There is an outer and inner CV joint on drive shaft..Also check that the main drive shaft isn%26#039;t damaged...Thats the only things that are possibly wrong..
Of course it might be a defective CV joint, but most unlikely if its new..
Mike....
Buy American.|||Well you may have needed both replaced,- OR the Axel%26#039;s them self%26#039;s need to be replaced! %26quot;not just the Joint%26quot;|||Okay well a few questions first:
Are you certified to do this type of work?
What makes you think you can perform this suspension job without a problem?
Did you use a new axle nut? - you will never get the correct torque if you re-used the old one.
Did you torque the bolt to the proper setting? - do you even know what that setting is?
Are you certain that the cv is the problem? - there are other items that will cause the same sounds|||did you change the right CV joint? There is an outer and inner CV joint on drive shaft..Also check that the main drive shaft isn%26#039;t damaged...Thats the only things that are possibly wrong..
Of course it might be a defective CV joint, but most unlikely if its new..
Mike....
Curious about changing halfshafts/cv joints on a 1993 Subaru Impreza L?
I have a 1993 Subaru Impreza L (1.8L) and would like yo know steps and tools needed to change half shafts.|||buy a chiltons repair manual,every anwser is in there good luck
How to change cv joint on mazda 121?
1996 model left side|||Jack her up. take wheel off, renove caslte nut(axle nut)
remove lower ball joint,(need a ball joint sepperater, fork)
then swing the wheel out of the way and pull the axle out of hub,then pop it out of transmission,it%26#039;ll pop out...it aint rocket science as others are suggesting,you might damage the ball joint so get a new one if you need one ,if not bring it back for a refund, I%26#039;ve done dozens of them, I%26#039;m an engineer,not a ASE mechanic though.|||That is complicated to answer on here the best advice I can give you is take it to a mechanic or if you want to do it yourself get a repair manual and it will give you step by step directions with diagrams|||A manual can tell you how to do it, step by step, just be aware that under the car the bolts and nuts are exposed to water, mud and salt for years, and may be too rusted to break loose without some trouble, or, in extreme cases, cutting a bolt or splitting a nut.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car%26#039;s symptoms. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot;
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton%26#039;s repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
Also, many people recommend autozone.com%26#039;s free online manuals.
Best regards,
Mike
remove lower ball joint,(need a ball joint sepperater, fork)
then swing the wheel out of the way and pull the axle out of hub,then pop it out of transmission,it%26#039;ll pop out...it aint rocket science as others are suggesting,you might damage the ball joint so get a new one if you need one ,if not bring it back for a refund, I%26#039;ve done dozens of them, I%26#039;m an engineer,not a ASE mechanic though.|||That is complicated to answer on here the best advice I can give you is take it to a mechanic or if you want to do it yourself get a repair manual and it will give you step by step directions with diagrams|||A manual can tell you how to do it, step by step, just be aware that under the car the bolts and nuts are exposed to water, mud and salt for years, and may be too rusted to break loose without some trouble, or, in extreme cases, cutting a bolt or splitting a nut.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car%26#039;s symptoms. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot;
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton%26#039;s repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
Also, many people recommend autozone.com%26#039;s free online manuals.
Best regards,
Mike
How much does it cost to change wheel bearings / Cv Joint ?
I bought a honda civic coupe recently .
yesterday i was driving my mom back from work , and as i was parking , i turned my wheels and i could hear a screeching or shreiking sound coming from the Right Front Wheels .
i did some research on Yahoo answers and it seems that
this could have been a defective wheel bearing or a cv joint .
i called the service center and the manager told me it could be the mud thing making that sound , and he adviced me to check tire pressure . So i did and seemed the air pressure was low on the Right front wheel and put some air in . But the sound didn%26#039;t %26quot;go away%26quot; . it sounds like 2 thin metal pieces sliding each other ( it%26#039;s a high pitched shreiking/ screeching sound) i dn%26#039;t understand what%26#039;s going on . I dn%26#039;t have a job right now , looking for a job , should i take it to the honda service center where i bought it ( will it be covered ) , or any service center ...
I was wondering if that exactly is the problem , and how much will it cost me to fix it|||I don%26#039;t think is the cv joints or the bearings, since the bearings will sound (while you%26#039;re driving) like you are driving a pick-up truck with huge wheels on it, (you know the sound they make)
And if it%26#039;s the cv joints it will only and ONLY when you turn to either side (clack, clack, clack noise), if it%26#039;s screeching noise it%26#039;s the brake pads, check to see if the disks are smooth, that could be the problem, if they %26#039;re not change the pads, that should fix the problem!, BUT if they tell you to change the cv joints it%26#039;s about $70 labor, plus the parts, each side, if you don;t have the money just tell them that you want the affected side (even though the Honda service they%26#039;ll try to tell you you need to do both) DO ONLY THE ONE, then when you have the money do the other one, i don%26#039;t think is the bearings...
But whatever you do don%26#039;t take to the dealer it%26#039;s gonna cost you a lot!!!, if it%26#039;s not under warranty off-course.
What you can do to make sure it%26#039;s not the cv-joints is this:
Turn the wheels to one side and look inside (the other side where you put the nuts that hold the tire) and you%26#039;ll see a large piece of rubber like a cup, that%26#039;s called the %26quot;boot%26quot; they%26#039;ll have a metal ring that holds it in place, if that%26#039;s loose or you see grease all over it, that%26#039;s the problem, but like i said before i think is your brake pads. GOOD LUCK!!!|||Replace wheel bearings...cheap - CV Joints...very expensive, Tonto!|||If it%26#039;s under warranty, you ought to be covered. It sounds more like a wheel bearing than the CV joint.
Check the rubber boot between the wheel and the transaxle. Look around the boot as well. These things can get a hole and throw grease out. Look for a pattern of grease around the boot. If there is a hole, yes it%26#039;s the CV joint and it%26#039; gonna be expensive. I%26#039;ve never done a Honda CV, but you%26#039;re looking at $350 +
yesterday i was driving my mom back from work , and as i was parking , i turned my wheels and i could hear a screeching or shreiking sound coming from the Right Front Wheels .
i did some research on Yahoo answers and it seems that
this could have been a defective wheel bearing or a cv joint .
i called the service center and the manager told me it could be the mud thing making that sound , and he adviced me to check tire pressure . So i did and seemed the air pressure was low on the Right front wheel and put some air in . But the sound didn%26#039;t %26quot;go away%26quot; . it sounds like 2 thin metal pieces sliding each other ( it%26#039;s a high pitched shreiking/ screeching sound) i dn%26#039;t understand what%26#039;s going on . I dn%26#039;t have a job right now , looking for a job , should i take it to the honda service center where i bought it ( will it be covered ) , or any service center ...
I was wondering if that exactly is the problem , and how much will it cost me to fix it|||I don%26#039;t think is the cv joints or the bearings, since the bearings will sound (while you%26#039;re driving) like you are driving a pick-up truck with huge wheels on it, (you know the sound they make)
And if it%26#039;s the cv joints it will only and ONLY when you turn to either side (clack, clack, clack noise), if it%26#039;s screeching noise it%26#039;s the brake pads, check to see if the disks are smooth, that could be the problem, if they %26#039;re not change the pads, that should fix the problem!, BUT if they tell you to change the cv joints it%26#039;s about $70 labor, plus the parts, each side, if you don;t have the money just tell them that you want the affected side (even though the Honda service they%26#039;ll try to tell you you need to do both) DO ONLY THE ONE, then when you have the money do the other one, i don%26#039;t think is the bearings...
But whatever you do don%26#039;t take to the dealer it%26#039;s gonna cost you a lot!!!, if it%26#039;s not under warranty off-course.
What you can do to make sure it%26#039;s not the cv-joints is this:
Turn the wheels to one side and look inside (the other side where you put the nuts that hold the tire) and you%26#039;ll see a large piece of rubber like a cup, that%26#039;s called the %26quot;boot%26quot; they%26#039;ll have a metal ring that holds it in place, if that%26#039;s loose or you see grease all over it, that%26#039;s the problem, but like i said before i think is your brake pads. GOOD LUCK!!!|||Replace wheel bearings...cheap - CV Joints...very expensive, Tonto!|||If it%26#039;s under warranty, you ought to be covered. It sounds more like a wheel bearing than the CV joint.
Check the rubber boot between the wheel and the transaxle. Look around the boot as well. These things can get a hole and throw grease out. Look for a pattern of grease around the boot. If there is a hole, yes it%26#039;s the CV joint and it%26#039; gonna be expensive. I%26#039;ve never done a Honda CV, but you%26#039;re looking at $350 +
How do you change a cv joint on a 2000 kia sephia?
Remove tire
remove axle nut
remove tie-rod cotter pin and castle nut
remove knuckle bolts (2) that connect knuckle to strut
now separate knuckle and strut then move knuckle towards you to make room to flex cv axle out of knuckle. After removing cv axle from knuckle you can take a large pry bar or flat screwdriver and basic go to trans and pop the cv axle out. You will likely lose a little trans fluid but not a ton.
Install new axle by pushing new one into the trans
then into knuckle and reinstalling the two strut to knuckle bolts.
then axle nut, and wheel.. make sure you torque the axle nut some of them are torqued at 200ft-lbs.
reinstall tie-rod, cotter pin and wheel.
If you need any more info email me
remove axle nut
remove tie-rod cotter pin and castle nut
remove knuckle bolts (2) that connect knuckle to strut
now separate knuckle and strut then move knuckle towards you to make room to flex cv axle out of knuckle. After removing cv axle from knuckle you can take a large pry bar or flat screwdriver and basic go to trans and pop the cv axle out. You will likely lose a little trans fluid but not a ton.
Install new axle by pushing new one into the trans
then into knuckle and reinstalling the two strut to knuckle bolts.
then axle nut, and wheel.. make sure you torque the axle nut some of them are torqued at 200ft-lbs.
reinstall tie-rod, cotter pin and wheel.
If you need any more info email me
1994 dodge spirit wont move when in gear reaves high and can move freely in park replaced left cv joint no he?
car wont move when i put it in gear and reeves high changed left cv joint still no movement.....noise is high pitched grinding which cv joint is the drive left or right any help would be great thanks iam hopeing its not the trans.|||the drive side it the right side on that one,if the axles are in place and the boots aren%26#039;t busted your transmission has probably gone out ,id make sure both axles are seated in place but more than likely you need a transmission,good luck.|||it needs both joints to move and there are 2 joints on each side making 4 in all all 4 must be good in order for the car to move or stay in place in park. check your trans fluid if it low it will not move it could have something broken in the transaxle. call autozone they may be able to help you.
Changing my cv joints on my 1990 honda civic. would like some help and tips please.?
1990 honda civic (manual transmission). i have been riding on the cv joints wearing down for a while so i figured i would stop fishing for a day and i would work on the car. im buy the whole half shafts for the passanger and driver side. what do i need to do to complete this job. thanks for any help. will select best answer.|||a 32mm socket and a 1/2%26#039;%26#039; breaker bar, (the long ones)
7mm socket and needle nose pliers, hammer, 17mm socket
and nice size flat head screw driver, and a jack, and jack stand.
first remove the center cap from the wheel(if you have one)
put the socket on to the breaker bar, and PUSHING downwards break the lock on the cv nut. once you have done this to both sides
lossen the lugs on the driver side rim, jack the car in the air, place your jack stand on the front support brace(big black bar under radiadtor)
take your rim off, with the pliers remove the carter pin from the a-arm bolt., and loosen the bolt with the 17mm and drop the hub assembley. now with the assembly hanging there use the hammer and knock the cv inward untill its mostly out, your going to have to fight with it a little to pop it all the way out.
next go under the car and with the flat head, wedge it between the cv shaft and the transmission, well turning the cv pry it out, and it will pop out.
get the replament cv, slide it in, and then slam it in untill you feel it snap into place, then place the cv buck in to the hub assembly and losely put on the 32mm bolt.
next using the jack lift the hub back up slowly untill it alomst reacehes the a-arm, pull the arm back down and secure it with its nut, Tighten, and replace the carter pin with a new one.
put your rim back on, tighten your lugs, drop your car, and tighen the 32mm bolt with the beaker bar
just repeat this for the other side and you just saved yourself about 500 bucks in work at a shop|||hire me a shadetree mechanic
7mm socket and needle nose pliers, hammer, 17mm socket
and nice size flat head screw driver, and a jack, and jack stand.
first remove the center cap from the wheel(if you have one)
put the socket on to the breaker bar, and PUSHING downwards break the lock on the cv nut. once you have done this to both sides
lossen the lugs on the driver side rim, jack the car in the air, place your jack stand on the front support brace(big black bar under radiadtor)
take your rim off, with the pliers remove the carter pin from the a-arm bolt., and loosen the bolt with the 17mm and drop the hub assembley. now with the assembly hanging there use the hammer and knock the cv inward untill its mostly out, your going to have to fight with it a little to pop it all the way out.
next go under the car and with the flat head, wedge it between the cv shaft and the transmission, well turning the cv pry it out, and it will pop out.
get the replament cv, slide it in, and then slam it in untill you feel it snap into place, then place the cv buck in to the hub assembly and losely put on the 32mm bolt.
next using the jack lift the hub back up slowly untill it alomst reacehes the a-arm, pull the arm back down and secure it with its nut, Tighten, and replace the carter pin with a new one.
put your rim back on, tighten your lugs, drop your car, and tighen the 32mm bolt with the beaker bar
just repeat this for the other side and you just saved yourself about 500 bucks in work at a shop|||hire me a shadetree mechanic
How do you change cv joints on a 1996 Ford Aspire?
I need to know how to change them out, I know some cars have fluid ATF? that spills out when you pull the cv joint out. Does the Aspire have it? It is a manual, with no ABS. Thanks|||i know a lot about fords but i dont know the answer to this question. i would say to go on autozone dot com and search their repair manual for this car. if it doesnt say on the site then a 20 dollar haynes manual will tell you every step. hope this helps.
I need a list of tools (socket size) etc. to change a CV Joint shaft on a 99 Passat V6 5 speed?
Last car I did was a honda accord. It needed a large socket like 22 MM but I dont remember the size or where I got it. But I bet the VW needs the same or close.|||a lot of foreign %26amp; domesticate cars r going metric-a good 6pt %26amp;12 pt-100 piece should take care of you
How hard is it to change the right CV joint on a 2003 GMC Yukon?
It clicks and hammers when turned to the left while the wheel is turning, the harder the turn, the louder the rotational frequency noise.|||If you are talking about doing it yourself, a CV joint is pretty involved. I%26#039;ve never done it, but I am pretty sure you have to disassemble all the suspension on that side, and the wheel bearings, hubs, etc.
Really a professional job I think, unless you are pretty confident in your skills. Check out a Haynes or other repair manual and you can flip through it and see what%26#039;s up.
Really a professional job I think, unless you are pretty confident in your skills. Check out a Haynes or other repair manual and you can flip through it and see what%26#039;s up.
Is there any special tools needed to change cv joint in 98 jeep grand cherokee?
im a mechanic and the answer is no all u need to do is take the hub bearing off first and it will come right out|||lots of beer
How to change a CV Joint on a ford taurus?
oh, any any tips..please/thanx|||Sorry, but if you need to ask then you should take it to a mechanic who will not rip you off. Should cost around $300 or less. It%26#039;s not worth your hassle to try and do it yourself.
Will changing a front wheel bearing eventually cause a CV joint to fail on a 2003 Yukon?
no..not changing a bad bearing will.|||I acant see any reason it would. Matter of fact, if the bearing is bad, the CV joint will fail sooner
How to change CV joint boots on a Toyota Tacoma engine 4 cylinder 3 RZ?
I would like to have a step by step answer if I can get it Please.
Thank You
justmeagain|||go to your local parts store and buy a haynes repair manual for the vehicle it will give you the steps you are seeking, buy it now you will need it again!!
Thank You
justmeagain|||go to your local parts store and buy a haynes repair manual for the vehicle it will give you the steps you are seeking, buy it now you will need it again!!
Grinding noise after changing cv joints....?
I got the front driver side cv joint replaced this weekend on my 93 Altima. That was the only side that needed done. Now its making a loud grinding sound the whole time you drive, it almost sounds like brakes grinding, but it is all the time, except when car is completely stopped. I%26#039;m taking it back this afternoon to have it looked at, but anyone have ideas what this will be?? Thanks|||they tightened the shaft too much and the half shaft is ruining the bearing in the wheel ( half shaft has a spline and nut to bolt through the spindle for the wheel )
too much pressure or toque is causing your problem, take it back to the place that did it,|||Sounds like too much torque on refitting, (tightened too much) causing the bearing to %26quot;great%26quot;, on shaft to bearing housing. If not done, and if this is the cause, it will cause the bearing to %26quot;Shatter%26quot;, or seize up. it will also effect the other bearing, In %26quot;gearbox%26quot; housing, and could damage this one too, or even damage the gearbox and the bearings and even distort the shaft itself. That%26#039;s providing this is the cause.It may be that the wheel hub, or brake disc, has not been alligned properly causing the shaft and bearing to not run %26quot;True%26quot; as it should. whatever the cause, get it checked out for your own safety, and of course, for the safety of others. best wishes, good luck.|||I hate to say this but occasionally the half-shaft sticks like he*l when trying to remove it from the wheel bearing. I%26#039;m betting they ruined the wheel bearing by simply beating on the end of the old half-shaft with a monster hammer to remove it from the wheel bearing.
They probably were too lazy to use a 5 ton three finger wheel puller to gently press the old half-shaft out of the wheel bearing.
You%26#039;ll have to argue with them concerning who%26#039;s responsible to pay for and replace your wheel bearing. I%26#039;d be mad as you already know what. Over tightening the half-shaft nut isn%26#039;t possible unless they used a 4 foot piece of pipe. Even if it was it would not ruin the wheel bearing. It%26#039;s gotta be tight. If it%26#039;s it all loose the wheel bearing will be totally waisted in no time as the CV joint hub will slam against the wheel bearing as the wheels are turned and move up and down.
The half-shaft joint must absolutely be tight against the wheel bearing. The half-shaft CV joints are able to move in and out because of the ever changing up and down movements of the front wheels.
too much pressure or toque is causing your problem, take it back to the place that did it,|||Sounds like too much torque on refitting, (tightened too much) causing the bearing to %26quot;great%26quot;, on shaft to bearing housing. If not done, and if this is the cause, it will cause the bearing to %26quot;Shatter%26quot;, or seize up. it will also effect the other bearing, In %26quot;gearbox%26quot; housing, and could damage this one too, or even damage the gearbox and the bearings and even distort the shaft itself. That%26#039;s providing this is the cause.It may be that the wheel hub, or brake disc, has not been alligned properly causing the shaft and bearing to not run %26quot;True%26quot; as it should. whatever the cause, get it checked out for your own safety, and of course, for the safety of others. best wishes, good luck.|||I hate to say this but occasionally the half-shaft sticks like he*l when trying to remove it from the wheel bearing. I%26#039;m betting they ruined the wheel bearing by simply beating on the end of the old half-shaft with a monster hammer to remove it from the wheel bearing.
They probably were too lazy to use a 5 ton three finger wheel puller to gently press the old half-shaft out of the wheel bearing.
You%26#039;ll have to argue with them concerning who%26#039;s responsible to pay for and replace your wheel bearing. I%26#039;d be mad as you already know what. Over tightening the half-shaft nut isn%26#039;t possible unless they used a 4 foot piece of pipe. Even if it was it would not ruin the wheel bearing. It%26#039;s gotta be tight. If it%26#039;s it all loose the wheel bearing will be totally waisted in no time as the CV joint hub will slam against the wheel bearing as the wheels are turned and move up and down.
The half-shaft joint must absolutely be tight against the wheel bearing. The half-shaft CV joints are able to move in and out because of the ever changing up and down movements of the front wheels.
How Much does it cost to change a CV Joint on a Explorer?
Roughly How much would that cost? The part is $90 what would the labor be around?
1998 Explorer XLT 5.0 AWD
Thanks|||on the explorer your probably looking at an hour and a half to two hours. as long as everything comes apart okay they have to take off your tires calipers rotors and most likely have to free up the ball joint so they pull the cv shaft once they have the shaft out they have to take out four clips remove the old joint and put the new one in they put it all back together. also shop around a little different shops have different labor rate get some quotes. good luck
1998 Explorer XLT 5.0 AWD
Thanks|||on the explorer your probably looking at an hour and a half to two hours. as long as everything comes apart okay they have to take off your tires calipers rotors and most likely have to free up the ball joint so they pull the cv shaft once they have the shaft out they have to take out four clips remove the old joint and put the new one in they put it all back together. also shop around a little different shops have different labor rate get some quotes. good luck
How do i change inner cv joint on ford escort?
my mk6 escort failed the mot because of the inner cv joint can anyone give me a step by step guide on how to do it or where to find how to do it i have knowledge on doing car just didnt want to make any cock ups lol will be much appreciated|||You have to replace the whole CV shaft, and if you do one then you might as well do the other. Once you get it out of the hub on the wheel side you pretty much just pop it out of the trans with a crowbar. It%26#039;s not terribly difficult, It%26#039;s one of the first jobs I did when I started driving.
P.S. You might need a puller to get the cv shaft out of the hub.|||Changing CV joints requires special tools and lots of patience. It%26#039;s not a difficult job but not an easy one without the proper tools and knowledge. It is an expensive job at the garage but atleast it will be done right. Guides can be found on many automotive websites (I don%26#039;t feel like looking up any for an Escort).
P.S. You might need a puller to get the cv shaft out of the hub.|||Changing CV joints requires special tools and lots of patience. It%26#039;s not a difficult job but not an easy one without the proper tools and knowledge. It is an expensive job at the garage but atleast it will be done right. Guides can be found on many automotive websites (I don%26#039;t feel like looking up any for an Escort).
How difficult is it to change a cv-joint gaiter?
Iwant to change this myself but dont know if i cando it or is it better to take it to a garage but my budget is limited|||dead easy. either buy a split gaiter kit or buy a normal one and split it with a pair sisscors. wrap it round and glue it together. it should take no more the 30 mins.|||relly bad advice i never have seen this work they rip out relly fast and you cant get the dirt out
|||take to garage special tools needed|||There are professional short cuts to doing this job, a garage can do it in an hour. Dont even think about doing it yourself it%26#039;s a bast~rd of a job if you dont know how.to do it !|||If you%26#039;re used to wrenching on your ride and you understand how the CV works, get a book on it. BTW, your local library may have the book you need. You may be able to rent the specialize tools from Autozone. Good luck.|||IF YOU LIVE IN THE UK YOU CAN GET A SPLIT GAITOR INSTEAD OF TAKEING IT TO PIECES THE JOINT THAT IS|||Its better to take it to a garage although not difficult it can be very messey.Get a quote before you leave the car Regards Mick.
Report Abuse
|||take to garage special tools needed|||There are professional short cuts to doing this job, a garage can do it in an hour. Dont even think about doing it yourself it%26#039;s a bast~rd of a job if you dont know how.to do it !|||If you%26#039;re used to wrenching on your ride and you understand how the CV works, get a book on it. BTW, your local library may have the book you need. You may be able to rent the specialize tools from Autozone. Good luck.|||IF YOU LIVE IN THE UK YOU CAN GET A SPLIT GAITOR INSTEAD OF TAKEING IT TO PIECES THE JOINT THAT IS|||Its better to take it to a garage although not difficult it can be very messey.Get a quote before you leave the car Regards Mick.
How hard is it to change a cv joint front axle on a 91 geo prizm front wheel drive car?
I need to change it, how hard would it be to do. Can i have it done or does it have to be put in a garage? Please tell me step by step if possible.|||If you dont know that much about cars I would suggest you have a mechanic do it.
I had my done (Ford Tauris) for about 110.00
That was in 2003 though.
I had my done (Ford Tauris) for about 110.00
That was in 2003 though.
Where can i find a guide to change a cv joint axle for a 93 civic ex?
I have been looking all over the place to see how i can change my own cv axle myself. is there anywhere on the net that will show how to do it and stuff????|||just go to auto zone and pick up a hanes manuel on your car, it tells in there step by step how to do it.|||its not all that hard i done one on a escort once just take the assembly apart and pull it out theres a little ring on the end so don%26#039;t lose it then just put new one in and reassemble that%26#039;s how i did it worked great just take a few reference pic before you start
1992 chrsler new yorker changed cv joint roters caliber brake pads still have a grinding noise?
man, they got you,probably a knuckle bearing|||Sounds like your front wheel bearing is bad.||| When you say changed CV joint are you talking about just the outer part of the drive axel or a complete full drive axel replacement was performed?It%26#039;s possible if only the outer CV joint was replaced that the inner CV joint is faulty still and causing this problem.
Now a days most shops don%26#039;t waist time on just replacing the CV joint itself it%26#039;s best to replace the whole drive axel but if the vehicle has several miles on it then by changing the drive axel it%26#039;s possible that this will cause the other drive axel to be replaced too.
It is possible if a shop did this work that they miss diagnosed the actual cause of the grinding noise and the fault here is the wheel bearing.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if the wheel bearing is the cause you%26#039;d know by simply jacking up that side of the vehicle and placing a stand under it , then apply emgergency brake , try spinning the wheel with the vehicle in neutral and if the grinding nose is coming from the bearing you should be able to hear it , try also pushing in on the wheel and turning it that might cause you to notice it better too.But really if the bearing is making the noise then more then likely you should be able to feel it within the wheel turning but keep in mind it%26#039;s better to change the whole hub assembly then to try and get the new bearings machined compressed etc.
If you check the auto wreckers you can find the hubs cheap for that vehicle regardless if it%26#039;s a pull it yourself wreckers or they pull the parts off for you.What I%26#039;d do if you can%26#039;t do the work yourself or have a mechanically inclided friend etc is to find out for sure via a free shop diagnose and then pick up a good used hub assembly and find a shop that will install it for 45 mins or an hr or so labour for you.
Whatever you decide always when dealing with such front end or wheel issues etc get at least a second opinion by a reliable mechanic and have them show you the fault and explain the possible causes and repair job to you too, plus many shops will offer a free check or diagnose on such problems.|||I think the only thing left to change is the wheel bearings.
Now a days most shops don%26#039;t waist time on just replacing the CV joint itself it%26#039;s best to replace the whole drive axel but if the vehicle has several miles on it then by changing the drive axel it%26#039;s possible that this will cause the other drive axel to be replaced too.
It is possible if a shop did this work that they miss diagnosed the actual cause of the grinding noise and the fault here is the wheel bearing.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if the wheel bearing is the cause you%26#039;d know by simply jacking up that side of the vehicle and placing a stand under it , then apply emgergency brake , try spinning the wheel with the vehicle in neutral and if the grinding nose is coming from the bearing you should be able to hear it , try also pushing in on the wheel and turning it that might cause you to notice it better too.But really if the bearing is making the noise then more then likely you should be able to feel it within the wheel turning but keep in mind it%26#039;s better to change the whole hub assembly then to try and get the new bearings machined compressed etc.
If you check the auto wreckers you can find the hubs cheap for that vehicle regardless if it%26#039;s a pull it yourself wreckers or they pull the parts off for you.What I%26#039;d do if you can%26#039;t do the work yourself or have a mechanically inclided friend etc is to find out for sure via a free shop diagnose and then pick up a good used hub assembly and find a shop that will install it for 45 mins or an hr or so labour for you.
Whatever you decide always when dealing with such front end or wheel issues etc get at least a second opinion by a reliable mechanic and have them show you the fault and explain the possible causes and repair job to you too, plus many shops will offer a free check or diagnose on such problems.|||I think the only thing left to change is the wheel bearings.
To change a cv joint on a 96 Grand Am,do I have to take both sides apart?
I got everything but the inner cv joint out but I can%26#039;t get it off.The book says all I gotta do is pry on it.and looking at the new part ain%26#039;t helping either.I have taken the driver side apart but the everything is still connected on the passenger side.Am I doing something wrong?|||you are doing it right. i have changed many of them they just come out really hard sometimes.p.s. make sure you change the inner seal that is pressed into the tranny also.they are less than 15.00.|||No and don%26#039;t remove the axle your not replacing! You may need to lever it out or use a slide hammer, but it should pop out from the transaxle. Another answerer may confirm this. Also follow the shop manual removal and installation procedure.|||Push it in...Pull!
Push it in...Pull!
Push it in...Pull!
Sometimes a film of crud builds up on the shaft on the back side of the bearing inside the tranny.
Push it in...Pull!
Push it in...Pull!
Sometimes a film of crud builds up on the shaft on the back side of the bearing inside the tranny.
How much does it cost to change the CV joint?
Looks like my 2006 sienna%26#039;s CV joint is broken, how much would it cost to fix at Toyota dealer?
is it hard to fix by myself?
if not where can I get the parts?|||It is fairly complicated. Depending on what you mean by broke. But if it started clicking when you turned the wheel to one side or the other, then it probably just wore out. It can be removed and replaced fairly easy. But it takes %26quot;some%26quot; mechanical knowledge to do it. If not look around. Find a good backyard mechanic who can do it for you. If you have a warranty, then for sure take it to the dealer. But you know what those warrants are like. You end up paying more money than you planned. Always happens.|||Don%26#039;t go to the dealer, they will charge you way too much. Go to a good neighborhood shop, same quality work half the price.
You will need the whole axle. Just the cv joint can%26#039;t be replaced if it%26#039;s already broken. And it%26#039;s complicated to do if your a beginner.
is it hard to fix by myself?
if not where can I get the parts?|||It is fairly complicated. Depending on what you mean by broke. But if it started clicking when you turned the wheel to one side or the other, then it probably just wore out. It can be removed and replaced fairly easy. But it takes %26quot;some%26quot; mechanical knowledge to do it. If not look around. Find a good backyard mechanic who can do it for you. If you have a warranty, then for sure take it to the dealer. But you know what those warrants are like. You end up paying more money than you planned. Always happens.|||Don%26#039;t go to the dealer, they will charge you way too much. Go to a good neighborhood shop, same quality work half the price.
You will need the whole axle. Just the cv joint can%26#039;t be replaced if it%26#039;s already broken. And it%26#039;s complicated to do if your a beginner.
I'm changing my cv joint on the passengerside on my camry do i need to change the one on the driverside also?
no. your probably thinking of struts or shocks. Cv joints dont need to be instaled in pairs.|||No, just make sure you get the right part. They can be replaced separately, as needed.|||NOPE|||No, not in my opinion.|||nope....but do make sure u get your front end aligned or else you will be replacing the same cv joint again or the driver side one.....|||Not unless it is bad also.|||No but as long as you%26#039;re down there might as well, if you decide to change the other side just make sure you don%26#039;t remove both CV axles at the same time. There is a little gear inside that will fall down into your transmission if you remove both of them at the same time. Big time headache. Good luck
PleaseHelp.Can changing 2 CV joint(Each End) in my car make it chug very bad.stop/slow down/not go up hills?
My car runs very well however started to clunk heavy to the right hand side. This has never happened before. I have never had any bother with my before. took it to the garage who said CV joint (overshaft) needs done this cost me a fortune. However since i got the car back it has been chugging very very bad as if it is the wrong petrol that in it or the timing is out. The car seems as if it wants to stop at any time. Another garage told me today that it may be the coil as all technical tests were coming back fine. Though someone else said that these cars dont have a coil. This is worrying me as i travel a lot 2 work on my own and cant seem to get a mechanic who gives me the same story.Does anyone know if getting the cv joint done could make my car chug very bad as if it does i will take it back but need to know what i am asking of them.I dont want 2 be silly and take back incase is nothing to do with it though it is strange that it has only occurred since they tried 2 fix it|||changing cv joints should not effect anything like that,did the transmission get refilled,are the shafts seated and not binding,did they damage the wheel brgs by overtightening,these are all places to start,unless its a deisel it will have a coil of some sort ,they may have pried on something they shouldn%26#039;t have but who knows.
good luck|||sounds like the torque converter is stuck in lockup mode, have a transmission technician look at the lockup solenoid, try unplugging it and see if it does not chug or die in gear anymore like that
it is a common problem
good luck|||NEGATIVE THE CV JOINT WILL NOT AFFECT THE WAY THAT THE ENGINE RUNS.
UNLESS THEY MESSED WITH OR DISCONNECTED SOMETHING|||Dude, this is just typical Peugeot...|||The CV joint and engine are not related. A bad CV joint will make a knocking from the affected side. It will not however interfere with the engine performance.|||it sounds like you may have 2 different problems, the chugging problem may be the transmission (has the fluid been changed, or did they damage something when doing so?) but if you were having a clicking or popping noise when turning it could be a problem with cv joint, if it has been damaged it will need to be replaced, driving with a damaged cv joint can cause problems with the drive shaft as well and cause more problems. hope that helps
good luck|||sounds like the torque converter is stuck in lockup mode, have a transmission technician look at the lockup solenoid, try unplugging it and see if it does not chug or die in gear anymore like that
it is a common problem
good luck|||NEGATIVE THE CV JOINT WILL NOT AFFECT THE WAY THAT THE ENGINE RUNS.
UNLESS THEY MESSED WITH OR DISCONNECTED SOMETHING|||Dude, this is just typical Peugeot...|||The CV joint and engine are not related. A bad CV joint will make a knocking from the affected side. It will not however interfere with the engine performance.|||it sounds like you may have 2 different problems, the chugging problem may be the transmission (has the fluid been changed, or did they damage something when doing so?) but if you were having a clicking or popping noise when turning it could be a problem with cv joint, if it has been damaged it will need to be replaced, driving with a damaged cv joint can cause problems with the drive shaft as well and cause more problems. hope that helps
Changed my CV joint, front end still pops when going over a bump or stopping suddenly?
I have a 2001 Chevy Cavalier. I recently changed my CV joint because it had been popping in turns and also while going over speed bumps or when I%26#039;d stop suddenly.
Now the CV is new. The pops in turning are fixed,but it will still pop on the side I changed the CV on when I go over speed bumps or stop suddenly.
What can be the cause???|||Better take a look at your struts|||Wheel bearings?|||Bad strut.|||Could be a loose ball joint, tie rod end, or a strut bearing plate.|||it never was your cv joint. it was probably something much simpler, bearings or your tie-rod, for example. A front end technician will tell you for nothing.|||Worn upper McPherson Strut bearing mounts that cause excessive play and a thump when you go over bumps.|||The Right answer %26gt;
BAD CV Joint....
CV Joint Boot has split, letting water and the elements get to the bearings.. Causing your the problem you have. Bad Strut or ball joint.. If you don鈥檛 fix the problem, they can brake while your going down the highway with catastrophic results.. Be careful, get it fixed soon.|||its one of two things or both,check the upper strut mounts and the sway bar end links.generally sway bar end links.|||Most likely you have a loose lower ball joint that needs replacing.
Check the inner and outer tie rod ends also (4) total.|||bad sway bar links, wheel bearing, strut, ball joint, or tie rod.
Now the CV is new. The pops in turning are fixed,but it will still pop on the side I changed the CV on when I go over speed bumps or stop suddenly.
What can be the cause???|||Better take a look at your struts|||Wheel bearings?|||Bad strut.|||Could be a loose ball joint, tie rod end, or a strut bearing plate.|||it never was your cv joint. it was probably something much simpler, bearings or your tie-rod, for example. A front end technician will tell you for nothing.|||Worn upper McPherson Strut bearing mounts that cause excessive play and a thump when you go over bumps.|||The Right answer %26gt;
BAD CV Joint....
CV Joint Boot has split, letting water and the elements get to the bearings.. Causing your the problem you have. Bad Strut or ball joint.. If you don鈥檛 fix the problem, they can brake while your going down the highway with catastrophic results.. Be careful, get it fixed soon.|||its one of two things or both,check the upper strut mounts and the sway bar end links.generally sway bar end links.|||Most likely you have a loose lower ball joint that needs replacing.
Check the inner and outer tie rod ends also (4) total.|||bad sway bar links, wheel bearing, strut, ball joint, or tie rod.
How do you change CV joint renault?
Megane coupe.i hear a knocking noise when i turn,i believe its the outer CV joint, if anyone knows better then plz help.|||If you have to ask then you probably don%26#039;t have the tools or knowledge to do this. Do yourself a favor and take it to a repair shop.|||be sure to check your brake caliper see if it is tight and visaully inspect roter when you tear it apart look for any thing broke
If my cv joint pulled out when i was changing lower ball joint?
if my cv joint inner pulled out when i was changing the lower ball joint if i put it back in it will go back in when i rotate it it just popped back into place and put the ball joint and control arm back in willit be ok, or are there some clips iside that would be damaged?|||yea there is a lil %26quot;C%26quot; shaped clip one the part that goes into the trans they are hard to get in sometime you just have to push really hard mabe even get a dead blow hammer and beat on it a lil but it will go and snap in DONT PULL it once u get it in or you will ruin the cv joint but if u need some more pointers just msg me and i will be glad to help|||there is special reusable retainer on the end of the cv shaft that holds it in. as long as you got it all the way back in, it will be ok
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)