Any advice appreciated on how to change these joints. Do I need special tools or will the ordinary ones do? They are making a lot of noise turning corners and need to be replaced. Thanks
CV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?
As much as I like to see people do their own maintenance, this particular job requires a professional and some specialty tools.
CV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?
Not sure what tools you'll need for your car. Have you got a haynes manual?
WOW!! you have one of those??????
i have literally only seen 2 of those in my entire life.. i remember specifically making fun of it because it was called charade....
%26quot;maybe it's a car.... maybe it's a rollerskate with a motor%26quot;
sorry... i digress.
So i assume you actually FOUND parts for it? if you need a special tool, it's pretty unlikely you'll find it..
i'm sorry i can't provide legitimate help, i was just so surprised to see that you had a charade.. i wish you luck though :)
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
We have a 97 Nissan Quest that makes a sound when you turn to the right or left.?
The dealer said the cv joints had just been changed. Does anyone have any ideas? Is it safe to be driving? This has been happening for the past couple of months. Thanks.
We have a 97 Nissan Quest that makes a sound when you turn to the right or left.?
if the dealer said they'd just ben changed why would there be any noise at all? I'd double check their work and have them diaganose what they did or didn't do... there should be no noise if they just replaced them in my book...
We have a 97 Nissan Quest that makes a sound when you turn to the right or left.?
It's sounds like CV joints. You can look under the front end at the rubber boots where the CV joints connect. If the boots look old and torn, the CV joints have not been replaced and probably need to be.
Clunky-clunky?
Squeeky-squeeky?
Thump-thump?
Clacky-clacky?
Screech.....
We have a 97 Nissan Quest that makes a sound when you turn to the right or left.?
if the dealer said they'd just ben changed why would there be any noise at all? I'd double check their work and have them diaganose what they did or didn't do... there should be no noise if they just replaced them in my book...
We have a 97 Nissan Quest that makes a sound when you turn to the right or left.?
It's sounds like CV joints. You can look under the front end at the rubber boots where the CV joints connect. If the boots look old and torn, the CV joints have not been replaced and probably need to be.
Clunky-clunky?
Squeeky-squeeky?
Thump-thump?
Clacky-clacky?
Screech.....
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
I GOT THE RODARS CHANGE ,UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS CHANGED .AXLE CHANGED .CV JOINTS CHANGED.WHEEL BEARINGS CHANGED..I GOT A NEW EVERYTHING.DOES ANYBODY NO WHY HERE A LOUD NOISE WHEN I HIT THE GAS OR TURN RIGHT OR LEFT
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
Something you listed was done incorrectly; possibly the bearings or cv joint. Take it back to the same shop and don't let them charge you for fixing it again!
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
You have loose parts.
who ever did the job for you didn't get
something tightened up tight.
take it back and have them check it out
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
Something you listed was done incorrectly; possibly the bearings or cv joint. Take it back to the same shop and don't let them charge you for fixing it again!
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
You have loose parts.
who ever did the job for you didn't get
something tightened up tight.
take it back and have them check it out
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
I GOT THE RODARS CHANGE ,UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS CHANGED .AXLE CHANGED .CV JOINTS CHANGED.WHEEL BEARINGS CHANGED..I GOT A NEW EVERYTHING.DOES ANYBODY NO WHY HERE A LOUD NOISE WHEN I HIT THE GAS OR TURN RIGHT OR LEFT
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
with all that being done and said you could have gotten a bad part,with the production of today's parts its real easy to get a bad one of anything,all you can do is start checking whats been done to it,it may turn out to be one of the parts you bought,because they were new doesn't mean the wont have a defect in them,it happens all the time,good luck on it.
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
I tell you what i had a 99 and it had a shock and spring mount broke at the top sounds very similar to your situation. GOOD LUCK!!!
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
with all that being done and said you could have gotten a bad part,with the production of today's parts its real easy to get a bad one of anything,all you can do is start checking whats been done to it,it may turn out to be one of the parts you bought,because they were new doesn't mean the wont have a defect in them,it happens all the time,good luck on it.
I HAVE A 1998 DODGE DURANGO 4X4 .tHERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM THE LEFT WHEEL AREA..?
I tell you what i had a 99 and it had a shock and spring mount broke at the top sounds very similar to your situation. GOOD LUCK!!!
I just need to have the CV boots (outer) replaced on my 1994 jeep I am selling?
I don't need the joints changed just the boots, I see parts are about 20 dollars what should the labor cost/time be?
I just need to have the CV boots (outer) replaced on my 1994 jeep I am selling?
do it your self. if you take it to the shop it'll cost about 60 bucks, per wheel depending on the shop.cheapest web hosting recipes for chicken alfredo
I just need to have the CV boots (outer) replaced on my 1994 jeep I am selling?
do it your self. if you take it to the shop it'll cost about 60 bucks, per wheel depending on the shop.
When i turn in my car it creeks what cud it be the cv joints are due to be changed!!?
Worn wheel bearings usually cause excessive wheel bearing play, or cause a growling or knocking noise to occur at wheel speeds. In addition, worn front wheel bearings can cause excess pad-to-rotor clearance and a resulting low brake pedal on disc brake vehicles.
Excess bearing play can be detected by grasping the wheel at the 12 and 6 oclock positions and tipping it in and out. In general, sealed, ball and tapered roller wheel bearings shouldnt have more than 0.005 end play.
Also check your CV joints-
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, a driver should find a big empty parking lot and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a %26quot;clunk%26quot; or %26quot;pop%26quot; when applying power or, if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure causes a strange %26quot;pattering%26quot; sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter/boot having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, one can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter/boot. Kits which include the grease, gaiter/boot, and retaining clips are available from most automotive manufacturers. Some universal gaiters/boots are split lengthwise enabling
When i turn in my car it creeks what cud it be the cv joints are due to be changed!!?
You might try greasing all of the serviceable joints and see if the noise goes away.
When i turn in my car it creeks what cud it be the cv joints are due to be changed!!?
I am guessing struts
Excess bearing play can be detected by grasping the wheel at the 12 and 6 oclock positions and tipping it in and out. In general, sealed, ball and tapered roller wheel bearings shouldnt have more than 0.005 end play.
Also check your CV joints-
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, a driver should find a big empty parking lot and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a %26quot;clunk%26quot; or %26quot;pop%26quot; when applying power or, if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure causes a strange %26quot;pattering%26quot; sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter/boot having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, one can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter/boot. Kits which include the grease, gaiter/boot, and retaining clips are available from most automotive manufacturers. Some universal gaiters/boots are split lengthwise enabling
When i turn in my car it creeks what cud it be the cv joints are due to be changed!!?
You might try greasing all of the serviceable joints and see if the noise goes away.
When i turn in my car it creeks what cud it be the cv joints are due to be changed!!?
I am guessing struts
Grinding car problems?
When turning to the right while accelerating the car makes a grinding noise on the front passenger side. This does not happen when breaking and turning or when not accelerating. Had cv joint changed. no difference
Grinding car problems?
check the clearance from the wheel to the fender and the bushings on the lower controle arm
next guess is wheel bearing
Grinding car problems?
sounds like a wheel bearing
THAT'S THE BRAKES. %26quot;breaks%26quot;.
wheel bearing. you will have to change both sides though. to be certain jack the car up and rock the wheel top and bottom. it shouldn't move if it moves you will get a slight thud
You need to have the following checked:-
1) Wheel bearing clearances.
2) Brake pads and discs condition.
3) Shock absorber condition.
Ja.
It could be the springs on your breaks are week, when a mechanic looks at them they will look fine just not work properly...some times when you get a break job the mechanic uses the old springs, not a good idea...
Grinding car problems?
check the clearance from the wheel to the fender and the bushings on the lower controle arm
next guess is wheel bearing
Grinding car problems?
sounds like a wheel bearing
THAT'S THE BRAKES. %26quot;breaks%26quot;.
wheel bearing. you will have to change both sides though. to be certain jack the car up and rock the wheel top and bottom. it shouldn't move if it moves you will get a slight thud
You need to have the following checked:-
1) Wheel bearing clearances.
2) Brake pads and discs condition.
3) Shock absorber condition.
Ja.
It could be the springs on your breaks are week, when a mechanic looks at them they will look fine just not work properly...some times when you get a break job the mechanic uses the old springs, not a good idea...
Is Pep Boys any good ? ( for replacing CV axles )?
2002 cadillac 125,000 miles.
While I was changing my brakes I noticed grease spray. It is coming from a crack in the rubber boot on the CV joint. I have replaced CV axles before and I am just not up to doing this. I checked with Pep Boys and they said they would do both for $390. This sounds fair to me, but I am concerned about quality since I know they will have to disconnect the tie rod ends and the part of the wheel that pivots.
I thought Pep Boys was more of tires, radiators, water pumps, brakes, shocks, alternator type place.
What are your experiences with them ? What about Midas or Hibdons ?
Is Pep Boys any good ? ( for replacing CV axles )?
Yes, them and Firestone have very good reviews
While I was changing my brakes I noticed grease spray. It is coming from a crack in the rubber boot on the CV joint. I have replaced CV axles before and I am just not up to doing this. I checked with Pep Boys and they said they would do both for $390. This sounds fair to me, but I am concerned about quality since I know they will have to disconnect the tie rod ends and the part of the wheel that pivots.
I thought Pep Boys was more of tires, radiators, water pumps, brakes, shocks, alternator type place.
What are your experiences with them ? What about Midas or Hibdons ?
Is Pep Boys any good ? ( for replacing CV axles )?
Yes, them and Firestone have very good reviews
What is causing the vibration on my front passenger tire during braking to a stop and at speeds around 70 Mph?
There was also a high pitched clicking sound at 70 mph that was resolved by changing the strut. Also, when I am driving at speeds lower than 10 mph I sometimes get a %26quot;KLONK%26quot; sound when turning. Due to the %26quot;klonk%26quot; sound I changed to CV joint, but the problem still remains. I took it to two mechanics, but the problem is still there... I'm to the point that I'm just letting it get worse so that it will be easier to diagnose. I'm just worried that something may fail when I have my 2 year old son with me :( I suspect that it is something to do with the suspension or steering...
What is causing the vibration on my front passenger tire during braking to a stop and at speeds around 70 Mph?
Check inner and outer tie rods and, upper and lower ball joints. The clunk makes me guess an upper ball joint is worn. It seems to me the mechanics should have been able to figure this out out. You might want to ask around for a reputable mechanic.
What is causing the vibration on my front passenger tire during braking to a stop and at speeds around 70 Mph?
The %26quot;Clonk%26quot; sound when turning is the critical clue here. The Ball joints are worn out. Not a job for the faint hearted or a dubious mechanic, as it leads to much cursing and tool throwing. The ball joints are located above and below the CV joint and are Pressed in and out with hydraulic tools(If done properly). The Mechanics who looked at this should have checked this first. There is a very simple test to figure this out. With your car on a level surface, Stand beside the front end and give it a hard shove to the side. You should hear the %26quot;Clonk%26quot; when you do this. Take the car to a decent front end shop, suspension shop, or to the stealership. Yes they will all rob you blind but piece of mind is a valuable thing. A certified mechanic with good liability coverage is well worth the overinflated price.
Check your wheel bearings. This could cause all that you have described.
Control arm bushings are a good place to start.
What is causing the vibration on my front passenger tire during braking to a stop and at speeds around 70 Mph?
Check inner and outer tie rods and, upper and lower ball joints. The clunk makes me guess an upper ball joint is worn. It seems to me the mechanics should have been able to figure this out out. You might want to ask around for a reputable mechanic.
What is causing the vibration on my front passenger tire during braking to a stop and at speeds around 70 Mph?
The %26quot;Clonk%26quot; sound when turning is the critical clue here. The Ball joints are worn out. Not a job for the faint hearted or a dubious mechanic, as it leads to much cursing and tool throwing. The ball joints are located above and below the CV joint and are Pressed in and out with hydraulic tools(If done properly). The Mechanics who looked at this should have checked this first. There is a very simple test to figure this out. With your car on a level surface, Stand beside the front end and give it a hard shove to the side. You should hear the %26quot;Clonk%26quot; when you do this. Take the car to a decent front end shop, suspension shop, or to the stealership. Yes they will all rob you blind but piece of mind is a valuable thing. A certified mechanic with good liability coverage is well worth the overinflated price.
Check your wheel bearings. This could cause all that you have described.
Control arm bushings are a good place to start.
How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?
I need to finish my dental work I need another root canal and I need a permanant cap put on the side I already had done, the other side I didn't even start yet it's a missing tooth and it's in the back so it's not really visable it just bothers me because I know I'm missing a tooth. It's around $1000 and would take my whole tax check.
My car is literally falling apart needs a tune up oil change shocks and a new cv joint and axel. Again would take my whole tax check
I owe capital one 1000. Same thing whole tax check
Which one is the most importanat?
How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?
Well your teeth will have to wait
I was going to choose your car till I seen you owe
Capital One ,
They charge late fees which accrue each month ( or maybe wks I would check it out) this can add up real fast and be very stressful not to mention owing a bank goes on your **Credit
Report** and can of course ruin your credit So forget about buying a new car later.
Trust me pay Capital One
Get someone to drive you to work
and since your teeth arent bothering you to much they can wait
Besides if you dont pay your bills you wont be doing much smiling anyway!!!
How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?
I would pay capital one, that way you have good credit and you can charge the other 2 things and pay on them, rather than having to pay all at once.
I say pay Capital One. Then you'll have one less monthly payment, thus giving you more money each month to put aside for your car and your teeth. And in the long run, if you wait to pay Capital One, you'll be wasting money because of interest rates.
get your tooth fixed
Capital One - your credit is very important, so keep it squeeky clean by getting rid of this debt! If you free up the card, then you could always use it again if there's an emergency with your car.
As far as your dental work - find a dentist that takes monthly payments and get it done!
Best wishes!
I would fix your car. The other things can wait, but you won't be able to do ANYTHING without your vehicle.
I would say, pay off CapitalOne and then go here for a loan from them for your dental needs
http://www.capitalonehealthcarefinance.com/dental/
See which one would offer you a better interest rate and take it from there.
the credit card debt. considering you are probably pay close to the min. payment and the interest is probably around 19%. I would get rid of that first. The car, maybe start to look at something a little better and not waste your time on a piece of junk.
Tooth. You can get your teeth to the point that they can't be fixed. Everything else can be replaced.
pay off the credit card. Sell the car and buy a newer one. As for the dental work .. save up then have the work done.
Fix the car. You can pay minimums to Capital One and the dental work is not an emergency. Plus with the car you can get a job to pay for the other things. Without the car, how can you work?
Tough one! I would say stay with the crdt card bill.
I would say fix your car and ask if you can make payments on the dental work? Or vise versa some car shops finance now so if they do then why not.
Your car is the most important one. With no car you cant get to work to pay for the other things.software drawing a circle
My car is literally falling apart needs a tune up oil change shocks and a new cv joint and axel. Again would take my whole tax check
I owe capital one 1000. Same thing whole tax check
Which one is the most importanat?
How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?
Well your teeth will have to wait
I was going to choose your car till I seen you owe
Capital One ,
They charge late fees which accrue each month ( or maybe wks I would check it out) this can add up real fast and be very stressful not to mention owing a bank goes on your **Credit
Report** and can of course ruin your credit So forget about buying a new car later.
Trust me pay Capital One
Get someone to drive you to work
and since your teeth arent bothering you to much they can wait
Besides if you dont pay your bills you wont be doing much smiling anyway!!!
How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?
I would pay capital one, that way you have good credit and you can charge the other 2 things and pay on them, rather than having to pay all at once.
I say pay Capital One. Then you'll have one less monthly payment, thus giving you more money each month to put aside for your car and your teeth. And in the long run, if you wait to pay Capital One, you'll be wasting money because of interest rates.
get your tooth fixed
Capital One - your credit is very important, so keep it squeeky clean by getting rid of this debt! If you free up the card, then you could always use it again if there's an emergency with your car.
As far as your dental work - find a dentist that takes monthly payments and get it done!
Best wishes!
I would fix your car. The other things can wait, but you won't be able to do ANYTHING without your vehicle.
I would say, pay off CapitalOne and then go here for a loan from them for your dental needs
http://www.capitalonehealthcarefinance.com/dental/
See which one would offer you a better interest rate and take it from there.
the credit card debt. considering you are probably pay close to the min. payment and the interest is probably around 19%. I would get rid of that first. The car, maybe start to look at something a little better and not waste your time on a piece of junk.
Tooth. You can get your teeth to the point that they can't be fixed. Everything else can be replaced.
pay off the credit card. Sell the car and buy a newer one. As for the dental work .. save up then have the work done.
Fix the car. You can pay minimums to Capital One and the dental work is not an emergency. Plus with the car you can get a job to pay for the other things. Without the car, how can you work?
Tough one! I would say stay with the crdt card bill.
I would say fix your car and ask if you can make payments on the dental work? Or vise versa some car shops finance now so if they do then why not.
Your car is the most important one. With no car you cant get to work to pay for the other things.
Any one know why my steering feels loose and jerks when i run over bumps, & the steering wheel isnt centered?
I just changed the driver's side CV joint. I am not sure how this effected the steering Colum since the CV joint connects to the transmission. its and older car, 1987 Buick.
Any one know why my steering feels loose and jerks when i run over bumps, %26amp; the steering wheel isnt centered?
If you unmounted the McPherson strut when changing the axle which I believe you would have to do when swapping the axles then the remounting of the strut may not be where it was before starting. The strut holds the tire upright and controls how the top of the tire leans in or out. When you reattached the strut it did not get put back where it had been and now the tie-rod attached to it is now out of position. I doubt anything is worn out this soon after replacing the axle. Take the car in for a front end alignment and the shop should be able to reposition it for you.
Any one know why my steering feels loose and jerks when i run over bumps, %26amp; the steering wheel isnt centered?
alignment sounds like you didnt do something right
You have a suspension problem. Your CV shaft shouldn't affect the wheel alinement unless for some reason your tie rod ends have been replaced or adjusted.
Check ball joints, tie rods
Worn ball joints (if equipped), worn tie rod ends, worn shocks. Or possibly you didn't get everything tightened properly after working on it. The steering wheel being not centered indicates bad wheel alignment which can be contributed to the aforementioned parts being worn out.
im unfamiliar with the design of your steering system, but take into account all the things mentioned above as well as steering rack bushings.
i would say ball joints, get them replaced but first make sure which ones, even when they look good you have to test them, get the wheels out one by one and shake the ball joints, they shouldn't have any loose movement.
Any one know why my steering feels loose and jerks when i run over bumps, %26amp; the steering wheel isnt centered?
If you unmounted the McPherson strut when changing the axle which I believe you would have to do when swapping the axles then the remounting of the strut may not be where it was before starting. The strut holds the tire upright and controls how the top of the tire leans in or out. When you reattached the strut it did not get put back where it had been and now the tie-rod attached to it is now out of position. I doubt anything is worn out this soon after replacing the axle. Take the car in for a front end alignment and the shop should be able to reposition it for you.
Any one know why my steering feels loose and jerks when i run over bumps, %26amp; the steering wheel isnt centered?
alignment sounds like you didnt do something right
You have a suspension problem. Your CV shaft shouldn't affect the wheel alinement unless for some reason your tie rod ends have been replaced or adjusted.
Check ball joints, tie rods
Worn ball joints (if equipped), worn tie rod ends, worn shocks. Or possibly you didn't get everything tightened properly after working on it. The steering wheel being not centered indicates bad wheel alignment which can be contributed to the aforementioned parts being worn out.
im unfamiliar with the design of your steering system, but take into account all the things mentioned above as well as steering rack bushings.
i would say ball joints, get them replaced but first make sure which ones, even when they look good you have to test them, get the wheels out one by one and shake the ball joints, they shouldn't have any loose movement.
Clicking popping sound coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
Already changed out the CV-joints, the lower right ball joint, brakes are in good shape, no noise from the bearing.
It only does it when I am applying the brakes and coming to a stop, I hear the noise at around 10mph and under...
Clicking popping sound coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
Believe it or not, but check to see that your lugnuts are properly tightened!
It only does it when I am applying the brakes and coming to a stop, I hear the noise at around 10mph and under...
Clicking popping sound coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
Believe it or not, but check to see that your lugnuts are properly tightened!
Noise in clutch area, ratling in the powertrain Suzuki Swift?
I'm a mecanician and a change my clucth (pressure plate, clucth disc, resurfaced the flywheel and pilot bearind and clucth bearing) on my suzuki swift 2000 last winter. Since 2 or 3 month I have some rattle in the powertrain, only when the car is cold. The rattle is on the 1 2 and thrid gear. I change cv joint and wheel bearing, and the rattle is still there. After that I think that might be the differential in the transmission. I try another transmission and the rattle is still there.
When I bolt the flywheel to the crank I remember I use my impact gun to bolt the flywheel. I don't tork the bolt with a tork wrench.
The rattle can be cause by that? It's a clicking noise and some times we can feel the noise under the car in the middle. Just where the radio is but on the floor. It's not the engine mount I check it.
What do you think of that?
Noise in clutch area, ratling in the powertrain Suzuki Swift?
Noise not in trans if you changed transmissions, has to be something else.
Noise in clutch area, ratling in the powertrain Suzuki Swift?
could be a cracked flywheel
maybe your clutch thrust bearing. Do you drive aggressively?
When I bolt the flywheel to the crank I remember I use my impact gun to bolt the flywheel. I don't tork the bolt with a tork wrench.
The rattle can be cause by that? It's a clicking noise and some times we can feel the noise under the car in the middle. Just where the radio is but on the floor. It's not the engine mount I check it.
What do you think of that?
Noise in clutch area, ratling in the powertrain Suzuki Swift?
Noise not in trans if you changed transmissions, has to be something else.
Noise in clutch area, ratling in the powertrain Suzuki Swift?
could be a cracked flywheel
maybe your clutch thrust bearing. Do you drive aggressively?
Peugeot 206 problems?
i bought a peugeot 206 around christmas time (08) since we got it we have had nothing but trouble to be honest but hey, that's a different story
but my problem is that the car is so smoky! ive tried a treatment thing about 20k miles ago but it never helped in the slightest. (the car has 120k miles on it so its very high, but it has come with full service history)
it also smells very exhausty inside the car when we go on runs (if that makes sense!) im just wondering if anyone knows or has a hint of whats wrong?
Ive already changed:
CV joint
Ball joint
Exhaust is being changed this weekend
brake disks/pads
any suggestions will be great thanks
Peugeot 206 problems?
Change your oil filter and fuel filter, that may get rid of the smoke.
Peugeot 206 problems?
i had this problem with my 2007 one and it was very smoky - obviously because it was on warranty the garage sorted it out but never told me what the problem was - a common thing they did.
I also had to have a new gear box, 4 new tyres, a new exhaust and also can you believe a new engine - this took a total of 3 months.
In the end i sold the car as it was more trouble than it was worth
I think maybe you should demand things from the people who sold you the car as its not your fault it has come with all these problems
If it has been used hard before you got it it is probably just a worn out engine
Diesel or petrol?
but my problem is that the car is so smoky! ive tried a treatment thing about 20k miles ago but it never helped in the slightest. (the car has 120k miles on it so its very high, but it has come with full service history)
it also smells very exhausty inside the car when we go on runs (if that makes sense!) im just wondering if anyone knows or has a hint of whats wrong?
Ive already changed:
CV joint
Ball joint
Exhaust is being changed this weekend
brake disks/pads
any suggestions will be great thanks
Peugeot 206 problems?
Change your oil filter and fuel filter, that may get rid of the smoke.
Peugeot 206 problems?
i had this problem with my 2007 one and it was very smoky - obviously because it was on warranty the garage sorted it out but never told me what the problem was - a common thing they did.
I also had to have a new gear box, 4 new tyres, a new exhaust and also can you believe a new engine - this took a total of 3 months.
In the end i sold the car as it was more trouble than it was worth
I think maybe you should demand things from the people who sold you the car as its not your fault it has come with all these problems
If it has been used hard before you got it it is probably just a worn out engine
Diesel or petrol?
CV boots? Cv joints? axel?!?
I recently had my cv boot changed on my 1994 Camry, I recall the mechanic saying I had tear in the boot and it was leaking grease so I needed it replaced. Now, I am not sure what all this includes when changing the boot. Last night My car suddley stop driving .. Drive sounded like neutral and park didn鈥檛 say in park. My gears werent catching each other. Also, when switching each gear it made a loud sound and park made an even worse sound. Someone said it was my cv axel? If so鈥?Then is it the mechanics fault that he didn鈥檛 do it properly or is this a totally different apart of the car.
Thanks so much!!!!!!
CV boots? Cv joints? axel?!?
you have to remove the axle anyways to replace the boot, so you might as well just replace the whole axle. thats what it sounds like a bad axle, a boot wouldnt do that.
CV boots? Cv joints? axel?!?
i had this problem too if its like a grinding noise it may be the bearing mine came form factory messed up apparently they have a problem with bearings i have had to redo mine 2 times already
If it was just done, I'd bring it back to them to have a look at it. Sounds like the axle shaft may not have been put back together correctly. (axle shafts have to be taken apart to change boots, unless the really poor boots are used)shared web hosting hair straightening
Thanks so much!!!!!!
CV boots? Cv joints? axel?!?
you have to remove the axle anyways to replace the boot, so you might as well just replace the whole axle. thats what it sounds like a bad axle, a boot wouldnt do that.
CV boots? Cv joints? axel?!?
i had this problem too if its like a grinding noise it may be the bearing mine came form factory messed up apparently they have a problem with bearings i have had to redo mine 2 times already
If it was just done, I'd bring it back to them to have a look at it. Sounds like the axle shaft may not have been put back together correctly. (axle shafts have to be taken apart to change boots, unless the really poor boots are used)
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
We have tried everything even broke a craftsman socket! We tried using a pipe and I need a suggestion please! It is on the drivers front side on a 1992 Honda accord. We are trying to change the halfshaft as the cv joint was bad. Thank you.
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
take the cotter pin out first then use the socket!!!!!!!!!
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
Shops have a special tool to remove the rotors
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/fron鈥?/a>
http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:CZL鈥?/a>
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
take the cotter pin out first then use the socket!!!!!!!!!
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
Shops have a special tool to remove the rotors
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/fron鈥?/a>
http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:CZL鈥?/a>
1989 chevy s10 blazer cv join?
I just purchased a 89 chevy s10 blazer (4.3 engine), due to years of neglect, it has a few issues (but for $100 its not at all bad), the drivers side cv joint is pretty bad, lots of loud clunking in 4wd, and it's very loose, not to mention half the boot is gone.
I have changed quite a few cv joints in the past, but was wondering on this version, do you have to pop the ball joint out, to replace the cv joint, or can you leave it alone to replace ??
If the ball joint has to be seperated, then ill just change those while I am at it, otherwise, they will wait until later..just trying to budget $$ for the repair.
1989 chevy s10 blazer cv join?
yep you guessed it the lower ball joint has to be takin off the spendle to get the CV shaft out.
I have changed quite a few cv joints in the past, but was wondering on this version, do you have to pop the ball joint out, to replace the cv joint, or can you leave it alone to replace ??
If the ball joint has to be seperated, then ill just change those while I am at it, otherwise, they will wait until later..just trying to budget $$ for the repair.
1989 chevy s10 blazer cv join?
yep you guessed it the lower ball joint has to be takin off the spendle to get the CV shaft out.
Clicking popping noise coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
Already changed out the CV-joints, the lower right ball joint, brakes are in good shape, no noise from the bearing.
It only does it when I am applying the brakes and coming to a stop, I hear the noise at around 10mph and under...
Clicking popping noise coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
I have had this problem before and it was the lower control arm jerking back and forth. I replaced it and the bushings around it and it went away. GOOD LUCK!
Clicking popping noise coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
And now for a really dumb answer! Have you checked the tire for an imbedded object?
Warped rotor, brake pad clips missing, Brake pads themselves.
on some cars when installing pads the shoes come with a lubrication tube as the pads adjust or be come worn the caliper maybe allowing the the pads to move around. so you should take care to look at the inside shoe as well as the outside. sometimes caliper slides will stick and wear out one shoe fast than the other.cause slack and possibly your clatter noise at slow speed.
Have you had the brakes worked on lately? Check the brake pads. Some imports had a problem with the disc pads %26quot;walking%26quot; in the mounts. This was caused by the machining of the rotors being done in the normal manner. This causes a spiral like cut in the rotor that works like threads on a screw. The spirals move the pad in the caliper mounts. Pads move as far as they can, then, like a stripped screw, snap back to normal causing a click sound and starting the movement over again.
Some pads have ears that must be crimped or squeezed onto the caliper to limit movement. OR you get the rotor's final finish cut done with a rotary disc that eliminates the spiral cuts.
If it is only on braking, it is likely the brakes... might want to check the rear bearings and brakes too as sometimes sounds from the rear can transmit to the front and fool you...
Good luck...
It only does it when I am applying the brakes and coming to a stop, I hear the noise at around 10mph and under...
Clicking popping noise coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
I have had this problem before and it was the lower control arm jerking back and forth. I replaced it and the bushings around it and it went away. GOOD LUCK!
Clicking popping noise coming from front right side of 98 mazda 626?
And now for a really dumb answer! Have you checked the tire for an imbedded object?
Warped rotor, brake pad clips missing, Brake pads themselves.
on some cars when installing pads the shoes come with a lubrication tube as the pads adjust or be come worn the caliper maybe allowing the the pads to move around. so you should take care to look at the inside shoe as well as the outside. sometimes caliper slides will stick and wear out one shoe fast than the other.cause slack and possibly your clatter noise at slow speed.
Have you had the brakes worked on lately? Check the brake pads. Some imports had a problem with the disc pads %26quot;walking%26quot; in the mounts. This was caused by the machining of the rotors being done in the normal manner. This causes a spiral like cut in the rotor that works like threads on a screw. The spirals move the pad in the caliper mounts. Pads move as far as they can, then, like a stripped screw, snap back to normal causing a click sound and starting the movement over again.
Some pads have ears that must be crimped or squeezed onto the caliper to limit movement. OR you get the rotor's final finish cut done with a rotary disc that eliminates the spiral cuts.
If it is only on braking, it is likely the brakes... might want to check the rear bearings and brakes too as sometimes sounds from the rear can transmit to the front and fool you...
Good luck...
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
I have a 1997 dodge intepid that i want to change the passenger side cv joint. I can not get it out. I have pulled on it quite hard but no luck. What should I do.
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
once you get it clear all you have to do is give it one real hard jerk and it will come out,dave told you right on this one,its real easy to get those out,good luck.
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
I assume you are trying to release it from the trans. You cant do that by pulling on it. You need to get behind the inner joint with a descent sized pry-bar between the joint and the trans itself. Don't try slow steady pressure. It takes a hard sudden SNAP with the pry-bar to pop it loose. There is a circlip at the end of the inner joint shaft holding it into the trans.
Best of Luck!
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
once you get it clear all you have to do is give it one real hard jerk and it will come out,dave told you right on this one,its real easy to get those out,good luck.
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
I assume you are trying to release it from the trans. You cant do that by pulling on it. You need to get behind the inner joint with a descent sized pry-bar between the joint and the trans itself. Don't try slow steady pressure. It takes a hard sudden SNAP with the pry-bar to pop it loose. There is a circlip at the end of the inner joint shaft holding it into the trans.
Best of Luck!
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
I looked at my CV joints and the one on the driver's side has some kind of oil on it. How long can I drive with it being like that until itll need to be replaced? Its not making any noises or anything...yet. And how much will it cost me when i do have to have it done? Would i just need it replaced on that one side? I dont have a lot of money.
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si with 95,000 miles on it
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
well if the cv joint is not making noise yet you most likely have a long time before you need to have that fixed ..when it starts to make a clicking noise you have anywhere from a week to 6 months or maybe longer before it breaks when it starts making noise i would get it fixed cost around $90.00 for a haft shaft (axle with both cv joints) and about one labor.. if you car did not leak oil before you took it in for the oil change you could go back and ask them to check it ...hair ideas cs files
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si with 95,000 miles on it
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
well if the cv joint is not making noise yet you most likely have a long time before you need to have that fixed ..when it starts to make a clicking noise you have anywhere from a week to 6 months or maybe longer before it breaks when it starts making noise i would get it fixed cost around $90.00 for a haft shaft (axle with both cv joints) and about one labor.. if you car did not leak oil before you took it in for the oil change you could go back and ask them to check it ...
Toyota or Honda. Which one is easiest to work on?
I am in the market for a new small car and am looking at either Honda (Fit or Civic) or Toyota (Corolla). I can do a lot of basic repairs and maintenance. I am wondering which one is easiest to work on in terms of the following:
transmission fluid change
brakes
cv joint axle replacement
spark plug change
distributor cap replacement
water pump
timing belt replacement
fuel filter change
thanks
Toyota or Honda. Which one is easiest to work on?
Both are great cars and maintenance is about the same
Toyota or Honda. Which one is easiest to work on?
About Transmission fluid change just go under the car and release the nut ... its easy for all
brakes : all cars is the same
Spark plugs : may be honda as it doesn't cover the engine with huge plastics .
distributor cap replacement : the same
water pump: Honda
timing belt replacement : the same
fuel filter change: The same
I would go with the Toyota. WHen the Honda timing belt brakes, the engine can bend valves. In the Toyota, most do NOT. Brake masters in Honda's can require a contortionist. Neither car has a distributor cap. Spark plugs only need replacement at 100,000 mile intervals. Use ONLY ELF or Mobil One oil in either car!!! Use only %26quot;top tier%26quot; fuels!!
Honda hands down on all subjects.
transmission fluid change
brakes
cv joint axle replacement
spark plug change
distributor cap replacement
water pump
timing belt replacement
fuel filter change
thanks
Toyota or Honda. Which one is easiest to work on?
Both are great cars and maintenance is about the same
Toyota or Honda. Which one is easiest to work on?
About Transmission fluid change just go under the car and release the nut ... its easy for all
brakes : all cars is the same
Spark plugs : may be honda as it doesn't cover the engine with huge plastics .
distributor cap replacement : the same
water pump: Honda
timing belt replacement : the same
fuel filter change: The same
I would go with the Toyota. WHen the Honda timing belt brakes, the engine can bend valves. In the Toyota, most do NOT. Brake masters in Honda's can require a contortionist. Neither car has a distributor cap. Spark plugs only need replacement at 100,000 mile intervals. Use ONLY ELF or Mobil One oil in either car!!! Use only %26quot;top tier%26quot; fuels!!
Honda hands down on all subjects.
How much should i PAY for a 96 honda accord?
it has 200k
need to change cv joint
overheats in about 40 min
hood doesnt close all the way
driver window doesnt work
How much should i PAY for a 96 honda accord?
$500 (like the first time u asked).
How much should i PAY for a 96 honda accord?
200 to 500 hundred depending on body but cv joints are expensive. and overheating isnt good. i wouldnt get the car to many fixes.
Not more than 500 would be ok, but the ovearheating might be a sign of engine trouble, be aware of the fact that this car could be a money drain...
need to change cv joint
overheats in about 40 min
hood doesnt close all the way
driver window doesnt work
How much should i PAY for a 96 honda accord?
$500 (like the first time u asked).
How much should i PAY for a 96 honda accord?
200 to 500 hundred depending on body but cv joints are expensive. and overheating isnt good. i wouldnt get the car to many fixes.
Not more than 500 would be ok, but the ovearheating might be a sign of engine trouble, be aware of the fact that this car could be a money drain...
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
It makes noises only when i turn and not when the car is going straight. I would like to keep driving as much as possible before changing cause it expensive to change.?
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
this is what i tell my broke dick customers-lol It is not unsafe ,at worst you are gambling a towing fee and the inconvience of unplanned stop and unplanned repair,if female i add that you cannot chose the time of night or the neighborhood that you will be stranded in -then i offer easy credit and they think about it for a minute then say yeah,go ahead!
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
its a few hundred to have changed at a shop, with new half shafts, not jsut rebuild, rebuilding is not recomended. Remanufactured would be the cheaper way of going (different then rebuilt, i don't want to go into that) and it will need to be done as soon as posible, or you risk breaking the axel on the joint. then you're going nowhere, and if you're moving at a good speed, the %26quot;whip%26quot; affect can sererly damage under hood componants within reach.
you wont hurt the car but you will continue to damage the bearing.
I would buy yourself a manual for that car and fix this problem yourself! It is very easy to do and you can do it for $20.00 or less. Dont pay a garage to do something this easy. If you dont feel good about doing it then find a friend to help you.
you can keep driving on it untill it breaks then you will not be able to go anywhere as you will loose your drive, and what he said the spinning halfshafts can do some damage! and the longer you leave it the more likely it is that something else will go wrong with it!
listen, only once.
first go to the local tire shop and get a newer tube, preferably one that has been pooped due to air pressure?get it? pop it. this will distort the rubber and cause it to work for you.
second cut 2 lengths so you can wrap the joint roughly 1.5 times more than 360 degrees. this is because you will not be looking at it (hahaha, no, its to make a greasy barrier to keep the dirt and grime away). actually 1 for each side.
now if you use compressed air and solvent to clean the cruddies out, with the front end off the ground, youll be able to turn it easily and check for outlandish wear through the whole spindle arc.(follow me? safety is important to me, but cv failure is gonna be either expensive to you ,ie;lowspeed, or high speed sling. each damaging your vehicle and maybe even you, but safe to the general public unless you sleep in the gutter)
now you use a black molly type of grease. i would uses a 40-60(60 red-eye) and pack the joint as full as possible and working it back and forth.
the last step is to drape the joint in a wadd of grease and wrap it with the direction of movement so you keep the dirt out.
this is a suggesstion. it is not right!!!!!!!!! it is not a cure, but it will get rid of the clack-ack-ack. now they do sale replacement dust boots! if you replace that and your bearings and seudo yoke/slipyokes are in good condition, problem solved.
in my opinion, about 85 % of the time the clacking cv is because its full of dirt. if its binding, then the clack-ack-ack comes from the diff. or 3rd member. on a transverse or fwd, the transmission and 3rd member are incorporated in 1 unit.
hey replace the cv, it'll let you inspect the passenger side stub axle and bearings.(long story about sides but 92%, passenger first)
That is a really easy fix. The half-shaft runs $60 from Autozone with a $37 core. You simply take off the wheel, pop the A-arm off, and pull out the axle, and replace. You CAN keep going until it fails, but its going to get REALLY loud. Once it fails, nothing will get it to move again until you replace it, except for a tow truck.
I would like to inform you that you have to change part of the velocity bearing. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Hatch and has the same problem. I ignored it and it damaged my bearing. Right now there is tremendouse stress on the bearing. Replacing the bearing will require machine pressing. Here in the Philippines labor is very cheap and replacement parts are cheap to because of our proximity to Japan. Change it ASAP and the problem will go away and also have the bearing checked. Good luck.
You can but you risk an even higher price if you break down on the road or by additional damage to other parts. The axles are ready to go at any time. By the axles yourself and then take them to a shop. That will save you some money if you can't do it yourself. Also if you do it yourself repack the wheel bearings with grease. Do not by the rebuild kit, for one they are more expensive that buying the reman axle. Also if it is making a grinding noise you have a bad wheel bearing not an axle. An axle will pop and bind.
its ur cv joint, need to be replace,it ok to driv it like that if u dont mind the noise when u turn,might cost u $300.00 on each side parts and labor
Look under the car at the axles and look at the outer boots, you will see your problem, probably on both sides, the boots will be ripped and you will see grease. If you have no mechanical ability, get it fixed asap. If you do it yourself, make sure that the spring clips on the halfshaft ends are locked into the differential, if not, you will be driving down the road thinking the problem is fixed and you will hear a pop and the car won't move no more. This means one of the axles popped out, and your car is not going to move cause it has an open differential. Okay im done rambling.
Yes. But they will just get worse and then your brakes will start wearing and your tires also.
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
this is what i tell my broke dick customers-lol It is not unsafe ,at worst you are gambling a towing fee and the inconvience of unplanned stop and unplanned repair,if female i add that you cannot chose the time of night or the neighborhood that you will be stranded in -then i offer easy credit and they think about it for a minute then say yeah,go ahead!
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
its a few hundred to have changed at a shop, with new half shafts, not jsut rebuild, rebuilding is not recomended. Remanufactured would be the cheaper way of going (different then rebuilt, i don't want to go into that) and it will need to be done as soon as posible, or you risk breaking the axel on the joint. then you're going nowhere, and if you're moving at a good speed, the %26quot;whip%26quot; affect can sererly damage under hood componants within reach.
you wont hurt the car but you will continue to damage the bearing.
I would buy yourself a manual for that car and fix this problem yourself! It is very easy to do and you can do it for $20.00 or less. Dont pay a garage to do something this easy. If you dont feel good about doing it then find a friend to help you.
you can keep driving on it untill it breaks then you will not be able to go anywhere as you will loose your drive, and what he said the spinning halfshafts can do some damage! and the longer you leave it the more likely it is that something else will go wrong with it!
listen, only once.
first go to the local tire shop and get a newer tube, preferably one that has been pooped due to air pressure?get it? pop it. this will distort the rubber and cause it to work for you.
second cut 2 lengths so you can wrap the joint roughly 1.5 times more than 360 degrees. this is because you will not be looking at it (hahaha, no, its to make a greasy barrier to keep the dirt and grime away). actually 1 for each side.
now if you use compressed air and solvent to clean the cruddies out, with the front end off the ground, youll be able to turn it easily and check for outlandish wear through the whole spindle arc.(follow me? safety is important to me, but cv failure is gonna be either expensive to you ,ie;lowspeed, or high speed sling. each damaging your vehicle and maybe even you, but safe to the general public unless you sleep in the gutter)
now you use a black molly type of grease. i would uses a 40-60(60 red-eye) and pack the joint as full as possible and working it back and forth.
the last step is to drape the joint in a wadd of grease and wrap it with the direction of movement so you keep the dirt out.
this is a suggesstion. it is not right!!!!!!!!! it is not a cure, but it will get rid of the clack-ack-ack. now they do sale replacement dust boots! if you replace that and your bearings and seudo yoke/slipyokes are in good condition, problem solved.
in my opinion, about 85 % of the time the clacking cv is because its full of dirt. if its binding, then the clack-ack-ack comes from the diff. or 3rd member. on a transverse or fwd, the transmission and 3rd member are incorporated in 1 unit.
hey replace the cv, it'll let you inspect the passenger side stub axle and bearings.(long story about sides but 92%, passenger first)
That is a really easy fix. The half-shaft runs $60 from Autozone with a $37 core. You simply take off the wheel, pop the A-arm off, and pull out the axle, and replace. You CAN keep going until it fails, but its going to get REALLY loud. Once it fails, nothing will get it to move again until you replace it, except for a tow truck.
I would like to inform you that you have to change part of the velocity bearing. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Hatch and has the same problem. I ignored it and it damaged my bearing. Right now there is tremendouse stress on the bearing. Replacing the bearing will require machine pressing. Here in the Philippines labor is very cheap and replacement parts are cheap to because of our proximity to Japan. Change it ASAP and the problem will go away and also have the bearing checked. Good luck.
You can but you risk an even higher price if you break down on the road or by additional damage to other parts. The axles are ready to go at any time. By the axles yourself and then take them to a shop. That will save you some money if you can't do it yourself. Also if you do it yourself repack the wheel bearings with grease. Do not by the rebuild kit, for one they are more expensive that buying the reman axle. Also if it is making a grinding noise you have a bad wheel bearing not an axle. An axle will pop and bind.
its ur cv joint, need to be replace,it ok to driv it like that if u dont mind the noise when u turn,might cost u $300.00 on each side parts and labor
Look under the car at the axles and look at the outer boots, you will see your problem, probably on both sides, the boots will be ripped and you will see grease. If you have no mechanical ability, get it fixed asap. If you do it yourself, make sure that the spring clips on the halfshaft ends are locked into the differential, if not, you will be driving down the road thinking the problem is fixed and you will hear a pop and the car won't move no more. This means one of the axles popped out, and your car is not going to move cause it has an open differential. Okay im done rambling.
Yes. But they will just get worse and then your brakes will start wearing and your tires also.
Having a problem with my 96 honda civic?
just changed the cv joint, and it still wont go into gear. the clutch is tight, and tranny fluid is full. Any suggestions on what it might be?
Having a problem with my 96 honda civic?
go to http://www.honda-tech.com
Having a problem with my 96 honda civic?
If the car is a manual trans then you may have an air bubble in the clutch line. and make sure you didn't over fill the tranny fluid. I believe you only have to put 2.2 quarts in.
Having a problem with my 96 honda civic?
go to http://www.honda-tech.com
Having a problem with my 96 honda civic?
If the car is a manual trans then you may have an air bubble in the clutch line. and make sure you didn't over fill the tranny fluid. I believe you only have to put 2.2 quarts in.
If asking a mechanic to change both cv joints should the axle or shaft be changed by them. Or must tell dem to
If you ask a mechanic to change both joints and he takes the axle out of the car, disassembles it and installs two new joints on it there is something wrong with this person. If a mechanic diagnosis your car with having one worn out joint I would be suprised if he didn't recommend that you just replace the whole axle assembly. I would say that if you asked them to change both joints they would automatically replace the whole thing but you never know. You are usually money ahead to change the whole axle because of the difference in labor. It is more labor to change a joint as you have to remove the axle, remove the joint, replace the joint and re-install the axle. When you replace an axle assembly you just remove it and install the new one with 2 new joints on it. For example, if I was changing a right front axle on a 95 caravan it would take me about 30 minutes to change the axle and you would be back on the road. If I was to change just the outer joint, it would take about an hour providing the old joint came right off without any problems and the new one went back on in the same fashion. The difference in price, a reman axle is around $89.00 and the joint alone is probably about $40.00 or so. Basically you pay for the joints and get the axle shaft for free.
If asking a mechanic to change both cv joints should the axle or shaft be changed by them. Or must tell dem to
a mechanic should never do any repair without prior approval.
If asking a mechanic to change both cv joints should the axle or shaft be changed by them. Or must tell dem to
you should always get a price up front. if you told them to change the cv joints that is what you get.but you can get the whole axle for much less. the mechanic should tell you this when talking to them but may not.
definatly inquire if they can get you a remanufactured axle if not find a shop that will this will save you time and money good luck.benefits of using cs files
If asking a mechanic to change both cv joints should the axle or shaft be changed by them. Or must tell dem to
a mechanic should never do any repair without prior approval.
If asking a mechanic to change both cv joints should the axle or shaft be changed by them. Or must tell dem to
you should always get a price up front. if you told them to change the cv joints that is what you get.but you can get the whole axle for much less. the mechanic should tell you this when talking to them but may not.
definatly inquire if they can get you a remanufactured axle if not find a shop that will this will save you time and money good luck.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
What is this Knocking in my 2002 mazda 626?
I have a 2002 mazda 626 and when i put it in reverse it makes a clattering sound, also when i take off at a fast speed is makes a different almost popping sound. i just changed the cv joints yesterday so i know it may not be that. what could it be?
What is this Knocking in my 2002 mazda 626?
If this sound STARTED after you did the CV joints and did not do it before that, then it is the CV joints. You screwed it somewhere there. Makes sense. Undo it. You may have to replace them again-you may have put them in backward or something like that.
When in doubt get THEM TO DO IT.
What is this Knocking in my 2002 mazda 626?
You should check your CV joints again.
What is most likely happening is that you are using the wrong type of gas. If you use the wrong type it causes the gas to explode prematurely before the pistons can compress it. Look at your owners manual and see what type of gas you should be using.
could it be you didnt do the job right was it making the sound before you did the job
What is this Knocking in my 2002 mazda 626?
If this sound STARTED after you did the CV joints and did not do it before that, then it is the CV joints. You screwed it somewhere there. Makes sense. Undo it. You may have to replace them again-you may have put them in backward or something like that.
When in doubt get THEM TO DO IT.
What is this Knocking in my 2002 mazda 626?
You should check your CV joints again.
What is most likely happening is that you are using the wrong type of gas. If you use the wrong type it causes the gas to explode prematurely before the pistons can compress it. Look at your owners manual and see what type of gas you should be using.
could it be you didnt do the job right was it making the sound before you did the job
I've come to terms that I need a head gasket... So how much is the damage??? :(?
I poste about 2 hours ago about my 92' Jeep Cherokee Laredo and how it has oil in the coolant. After the 6 great answers I got, I've come to terms that it's probably a head gasket. Along with the head gasket, I'll need to flush out the oil out of the coolant too. I'm trying to find out how much is too much as opposed to how much cause I know its probably different everywhere. I would just sell it as is and get a dependable sedan, but it just can't happen. I need a few other things done (oil change, cv joints, etc.) but I want to get the important **** done. It's a straight 6 engine, so i believe it's only got 1 gasket.
I've come to terms that I need a head gasket... So how much is the damage??? :(?
There is a reason the gasket failed, and it should be fixed also. Plan on getting the head milled to correct the warp. Might as well just give it a valve job.
You might just want to get a complete engine from a salvage yard. Get them to check the compression first. This would prove faster and maybe give you fewer surprises. You might find lower prices then those at this site:
http://www.car-part.com/
But it will give you an idea of the cost.
I've come to terms that I need a head gasket... So how much is the damage??? :(?
u r looking at about1,200 to 1,500 dollars
The straight (inline) six cylinder from that model is pretty straightforward. Not a great deal of stuff to remove to get to that cylinder head. If you have not suffered engine damage due to the coolant in the oil, I'd think $300 might cover that job.
If you are fixing only the head gasket...and provided the head is in good shape...you are probably looking at between $300 and $600 depending on the garage you take it to. they all charge different labor rates so that will be the factor you are looking at.
you might have someone qualified to check if the head or block/cylinders/etc. are not cracked first-you might be wasting money altogether for a non -repairable motor
I've come to terms that I need a head gasket... So how much is the damage??? :(?
There is a reason the gasket failed, and it should be fixed also. Plan on getting the head milled to correct the warp. Might as well just give it a valve job.
You might just want to get a complete engine from a salvage yard. Get them to check the compression first. This would prove faster and maybe give you fewer surprises. You might find lower prices then those at this site:
http://www.car-part.com/
But it will give you an idea of the cost.
I've come to terms that I need a head gasket... So how much is the damage??? :(?
u r looking at about1,200 to 1,500 dollars
The straight (inline) six cylinder from that model is pretty straightforward. Not a great deal of stuff to remove to get to that cylinder head. If you have not suffered engine damage due to the coolant in the oil, I'd think $300 might cover that job.
If you are fixing only the head gasket...and provided the head is in good shape...you are probably looking at between $300 and $600 depending on the garage you take it to. they all charge different labor rates so that will be the factor you are looking at.
you might have someone qualified to check if the head or block/cylinders/etc. are not cracked first-you might be wasting money altogether for a non -repairable motor
Anyone know any online car repair archives for a sunfire?
I'm looking for a diagram for changing out my cv joint/axle on my 98 sunfire, 2.2 manual. any ideas?
Anyone know any online car repair archives for a sunfire?
go to your local auto parts store and purchase a Haynes repair manual for your car. you will be able to use it for other do it yourself repairs to your car and they are not that expensive
Anyone know any online car repair archives for a sunfire?
go to your local auto parts store and purchase a Haynes repair manual for your car. you will be able to use it for other do it yourself repairs to your car and they are not that expensive
Changed struts and cv joints..now brakes dont work?
I have a 1992 toyota corolla, I was replacing most of the left front end, I did the cv joints, the struts, and the ball joint. When I was done putting everything back together i went to make sure the brakes worked, since it was one of the last things to go back on...well they dont. I tried bleeding them, but there isnt even any pressure in the line. I filled the brake fluid and everything,but the pedal still pushes easily to the floor, and even with it to the floor someone can turn the tire with their hands no problem
Changed struts and cv joints..now brakes dont work?
Did you twist the line putting it back on? You may just have the line pinched off. Take a look and you'll know right away. You should just have to untwist it.
Changed struts and cv joints..now brakes dont work?
often when you take one thing apart something else goes .always go back to basics if you have no brake pressure the master cylinder is junk or needs to be blead stop chasing ghosts and go to the begining you can bleed the master on the car with two pieces of short line run them directly into the cylinder and pump the brakes if it dont work its junk personally i would just go buy a new M-C there not usualy that expensive ps-bleed it before you install it good luck chicky KEITH FROM OSSIPEE NH
Changed struts and cv joints..now brakes dont work?
Did you twist the line putting it back on? You may just have the line pinched off. Take a look and you'll know right away. You should just have to untwist it.
Changed struts and cv joints..now brakes dont work?
often when you take one thing apart something else goes .always go back to basics if you have no brake pressure the master cylinder is junk or needs to be blead stop chasing ghosts and go to the begining you can bleed the master on the car with two pieces of short line run them directly into the cylinder and pump the brakes if it dont work its junk personally i would just go buy a new M-C there not usualy that expensive ps-bleed it before you install it good luck chicky KEITH FROM OSSIPEE NH
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
An oil change at the Toyota dealership for my 1996 Camry (with 160k miles) resulted in a recommendation to replace both CV joints because they had split (I assume that the boots have split). The dealership is quoting $350 per axle to do this work. A local mechanic is asking for $150 per axle.
My questions are:
1. How serious is this condition? I hear that a clicking sound is an indication of this being a serious issue but I don't hear anything when driving my car.
2. There's a huge cost differential between the dealership and the local mechanic. Any advice for me on which I should choose?
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
First of all 350 per axle is way too much. On the other hand 150 per axle seems way cheap. Is your local %26quot;mechanic%26quot; giving you at least a one year warranty parts and labor? If he is, then jump on that. Is your local mechanics shop a reputable repair facility? Also fyi, usually it's just the outer boots that tear, so if you dont hear any clicking noises when turning you can just replace the boots. The boots cost about ten dollars each and I would guess the labor would be an hour a side to install them. The whole key to cv shafts is to catch the boot when it first tears, that way you can replace the boot before all the grease is lost and damage is done to the joints.
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
if you gotta have original everything, than go with the dealership.
If you go with the local mechanic, at least show up with toyota transmission fluid, because it's going to leak out when they pull the drive shafts.
if the boots are busted ,replace them. there are replacement boots you can put on without having to pull the axles. check with your local parts store. they are fairly easy to put on. just follow the instructions.loss of control in hands favorite shampoo hair conditioner
My questions are:
1. How serious is this condition? I hear that a clicking sound is an indication of this being a serious issue but I don't hear anything when driving my car.
2. There's a huge cost differential between the dealership and the local mechanic. Any advice for me on which I should choose?
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
First of all 350 per axle is way too much. On the other hand 150 per axle seems way cheap. Is your local %26quot;mechanic%26quot; giving you at least a one year warranty parts and labor? If he is, then jump on that. Is your local mechanics shop a reputable repair facility? Also fyi, usually it's just the outer boots that tear, so if you dont hear any clicking noises when turning you can just replace the boots. The boots cost about ten dollars each and I would guess the labor would be an hour a side to install them. The whole key to cv shafts is to catch the boot when it first tears, that way you can replace the boot before all the grease is lost and damage is done to the joints.
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
if you gotta have original everything, than go with the dealership.
If you go with the local mechanic, at least show up with toyota transmission fluid, because it's going to leak out when they pull the drive shafts.
if the boots are busted ,replace them. there are replacement boots you can put on without having to pull the axles. check with your local parts store. they are fairly easy to put on. just follow the instructions.
If a cv boot isn't all the on the joint will that make a clicking noise when driving?
I change my wheel studs my brakes and all the sudden I hear a clickin knocking noise when I'm driving. I have no idea what it is or could be. Is something wrong with the drivehsaft? I wouldn't think so or I would be able to go. And it seem like the faster I go, the louder it get.
If a cv boot isn't all the on the joint will that make a clicking noise when driving?
check your studs are tight... it has been know that the wheels are loose!
take your car to a large carpark, wind down the windows and drive in big circles... 1st clockwise then anti-clock. if you hear a tapping sound then one of your CV joints will be on its way out (assuming it is a FWD)
You should be able to tell which side by listening. Its unusual for the inner CV to go (next to the gearbox)
the drive shaft will be OK.
If a cv boot isn't all the on the joint will that make a clicking noise when driving?
Yes it will make a clicking you have a bad cv joint you have to change it
Yes you have a bad cv joint went it make a clicking noise it is bad
It could be in the drive shaft, in the brakes or even in the power steering unit, have you checked your power steering fluid? Also check the drive boot for leaks and or tears and .. I hope this helps a little ......
the cv joints are prob bad.make noise when you turn or accelerate
? its a drive shaft componant like a drive shaft only for front wheel drive.boots prob off because its old,dirty,worn out.you can maybe check them by parking on flat ground chock your wheels,take it out of gear.grab the shaft that the boot is on and try and wiggle it.but even if you cant wiggle it it might be bad
If a cv boot isn't all the on the joint will that make a clicking noise when driving?
check your studs are tight... it has been know that the wheels are loose!
take your car to a large carpark, wind down the windows and drive in big circles... 1st clockwise then anti-clock. if you hear a tapping sound then one of your CV joints will be on its way out (assuming it is a FWD)
You should be able to tell which side by listening. Its unusual for the inner CV to go (next to the gearbox)
the drive shaft will be OK.
If a cv boot isn't all the on the joint will that make a clicking noise when driving?
Yes it will make a clicking you have a bad cv joint you have to change it
Yes you have a bad cv joint went it make a clicking noise it is bad
It could be in the drive shaft, in the brakes or even in the power steering unit, have you checked your power steering fluid? Also check the drive boot for leaks and or tears and .. I hope this helps a little ......
the cv joints are prob bad.make noise when you turn or accelerate
? its a drive shaft componant like a drive shaft only for front wheel drive.boots prob off because its old,dirty,worn out.you can maybe check them by parking on flat ground chock your wheels,take it out of gear.grab the shaft that the boot is on and try and wiggle it.but even if you cant wiggle it it might be bad
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
I looked at my CV joints and the one on the driver's side has some kind of oil on it. How long can I drive with it being like that until itll need to be replaced? And how much will it cost me when i do have to have it done? Would i just need it replaced on that one side? I dont have a lot of money.
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si.
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
1 if the CV joint isnt clicking/clacking it will/could last for years and 20/40K miles cost is 200 per side.. if it has 125,000 mi or more do both sides while its at shop
Oli pan...a simple oil change will not cause lots of leak//unless guy poured 1/2 qt down the side or overfilled [did u chek level] wip it clean and see what it really is doing before asking a mechanic..[they aim to please and will be happy to put a new 500 dollar oil pan gasget %26quot;just to be safe%26quot; could b valve cover gasget..
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
If the CV joint is going bad, it will start to make noise when you turn. You can drive it until it breaks or until you can't stand the noise.
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si.
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
1 if the CV joint isnt clicking/clacking it will/could last for years and 20/40K miles cost is 200 per side.. if it has 125,000 mi or more do both sides while its at shop
Oli pan...a simple oil change will not cause lots of leak//unless guy poured 1/2 qt down the side or overfilled [did u chek level] wip it clean and see what it really is doing before asking a mechanic..[they aim to please and will be happy to put a new 500 dollar oil pan gasget %26quot;just to be safe%26quot; could b valve cover gasget..
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
If the CV joint is going bad, it will start to make noise when you turn. You can drive it until it breaks or until you can't stand the noise.
Changing Shock struts?
I am going to change the front shock stuts on my 1995 Chevrolet Corsica. Does this task really require a front end alignment after putting them on? Can it wait a couple of weeks, because after next payday I am going to change the front CV Joints also, does that job require a front end ailignment?
Changing Shock struts?
Yes, after you change the struts/shocks on the front end of your Corsica, it needs aligned. It does not need aligned after the CV joints, but if you have to wait for a little cash any way, a couple of weeks won't be that bad on your tires. When was the last time you rotated the tires, if it is even close to half way through that time period, rotate them right after you get it aligned, or have them do it. But by the sounds of it, if you are willing to change the struts on your car, you can handle rotating the tires. It will drive worse for a bit after you change the struts, did you think about waiting until you have to money to get it aligned to change them? Well good luck to you.
Changing Shock struts?
yes it does,if you wait even a little while you will find the car drives terible and will wear tires fast.cv joints dont require an alignment
Hi there the jobs your going to carry out dont require wheel alignment doing but its always advisable to have it checked ive replaced thousands and not done the wheel alignment afterwards
swapping the struts will need an alignment - you can get them close by eyeballing it, but it will need done soon.
The cv shaft you can do without an alignment.
I would suggest that you wait and install the shocks when you do the CV joints.
For two reasons-
1) Reduced time, some of the parts that you have to take out to do the shocks will help you do the CV joints easier. If you are letting a shop do this try to get some time knocked off the flat rate chart because the front end is already apart.
2) Reduced cost, front ends need alignment more often the most of us have it done. So you most likely need an alignment right now anyway and one time is cheaper then two.
*Red alert! Save your money till you can do both jobs at once. First you need to pop the lower ball joint apart with a pitman arm press, avalable as a free reatal tool at Auto Zone. You will have to press inward the CV half shaft splined end from the front wheel bearings with a 3 finger 5 ton wheel puller to change the struts. This also is a free rental tool at auto Zone. You will be able to complete both jobs at once. Forget a CV joint only. Replace the entire half shaft and you'll have two new rebuilt joints, boots and an axle.
You absolutely will not have changed the alignment of your car by changing either or both of these items. You can rent with a credit card (free) the spring compresser tools (Auto Zone) for the front coils once the strut is out of the car.
Yes you will need an alignment after you replace your struts. I don't suggest driving it far because you tires will be out and this could cause your tires to wear VERY fast and also make it very difficult to steer. You will not necessarily need an alignment when you replace your cv joints. I would try to do the alignment after all the front end work is completed to insure a good proper alignment.
i suspect that you have never done this before:
country boy from big flats is correct but, I have never ever seen a spring that had more then 100k miles that could not use replacement too. In most cases the spring is just as much cause of the boing boing and always the bottoming out than the strut/shock. springs keep the car UP (therefore not bottoming out). and strut/shocks keeps/slows down the movement of the hole suspension
change them both. I have seen cars in NY that would not pass inspection because of shot shocks, struts. Changed the springs and the car passes and handled like new. If you change the springs it will change camber and toe
I have replaced hundreds of struts and axles in this particular car, you dont have to have an alignment but it is strongly suggested. And wow in my 40 years of doing auto work, this is funny, I have never had to use a pitman arm puller to disconnect a lower ball joint nor use a 5 ton press for the axles, that is hilarious, dude you have no idea as to what you are talking about, try the boyfriend girlfriend questions, not here where you are way out of your league little man with incorrect garbage for answers.
Changing Shock struts?
Yes, after you change the struts/shocks on the front end of your Corsica, it needs aligned. It does not need aligned after the CV joints, but if you have to wait for a little cash any way, a couple of weeks won't be that bad on your tires. When was the last time you rotated the tires, if it is even close to half way through that time period, rotate them right after you get it aligned, or have them do it. But by the sounds of it, if you are willing to change the struts on your car, you can handle rotating the tires. It will drive worse for a bit after you change the struts, did you think about waiting until you have to money to get it aligned to change them? Well good luck to you.
Changing Shock struts?
yes it does,if you wait even a little while you will find the car drives terible and will wear tires fast.cv joints dont require an alignment
Hi there the jobs your going to carry out dont require wheel alignment doing but its always advisable to have it checked ive replaced thousands and not done the wheel alignment afterwards
swapping the struts will need an alignment - you can get them close by eyeballing it, but it will need done soon.
The cv shaft you can do without an alignment.
I would suggest that you wait and install the shocks when you do the CV joints.
For two reasons-
1) Reduced time, some of the parts that you have to take out to do the shocks will help you do the CV joints easier. If you are letting a shop do this try to get some time knocked off the flat rate chart because the front end is already apart.
2) Reduced cost, front ends need alignment more often the most of us have it done. So you most likely need an alignment right now anyway and one time is cheaper then two.
*Red alert! Save your money till you can do both jobs at once. First you need to pop the lower ball joint apart with a pitman arm press, avalable as a free reatal tool at Auto Zone. You will have to press inward the CV half shaft splined end from the front wheel bearings with a 3 finger 5 ton wheel puller to change the struts. This also is a free rental tool at auto Zone. You will be able to complete both jobs at once. Forget a CV joint only. Replace the entire half shaft and you'll have two new rebuilt joints, boots and an axle.
You absolutely will not have changed the alignment of your car by changing either or both of these items. You can rent with a credit card (free) the spring compresser tools (Auto Zone) for the front coils once the strut is out of the car.
Yes you will need an alignment after you replace your struts. I don't suggest driving it far because you tires will be out and this could cause your tires to wear VERY fast and also make it very difficult to steer. You will not necessarily need an alignment when you replace your cv joints. I would try to do the alignment after all the front end work is completed to insure a good proper alignment.
i suspect that you have never done this before:
country boy from big flats is correct but, I have never ever seen a spring that had more then 100k miles that could not use replacement too. In most cases the spring is just as much cause of the boing boing and always the bottoming out than the strut/shock. springs keep the car UP (therefore not bottoming out). and strut/shocks keeps/slows down the movement of the hole suspension
change them both. I have seen cars in NY that would not pass inspection because of shot shocks, struts. Changed the springs and the car passes and handled like new. If you change the springs it will change camber and toe
I have replaced hundreds of struts and axles in this particular car, you dont have to have an alignment but it is strongly suggested. And wow in my 40 years of doing auto work, this is funny, I have never had to use a pitman arm puller to disconnect a lower ball joint nor use a 5 ton press for the axles, that is hilarious, dude you have no idea as to what you are talking about, try the boyfriend girlfriend questions, not here where you are way out of your league little man with incorrect garbage for answers.
How long should it take for a shop to change the clutch on my 91 Ford Probe GL?
Im tryin not to get ripped off on shop hours, Also I need to change the cv joints. Thanks for any help
How long should it take for a shop to change the clutch on my 91 Ford Probe GL?
They have to pull the engine, so it's going to run close to $1,000 :(
How long should it take for a shop to change the clutch on my 91 Ford Probe GL?
Ford Probe *cringe*.... Unless it is like brand new with 25,000 miles on it or less just get a new car.....
Really you know what, you are going to get ripped off if you go to a shop anyway so I don't know if you are going to want to take it to get fixed. I mean if you have someone that you know and is good with cars all you have to do is followed, Well really it's all about how long it will take you. I know that we had to do that in ours and most of the work is lifting the engine up. If you lift the engine out it should take a few hours depending if you know what you are doing. For a shop to do that it will be like more money than the car is worth. I know how much fun these are to drive. So basically don't take it to a mechanic. I know because I am one and I was sick of getting kicked in the A** When I took my cars to the shop, so have good luck
Depends on how busy the shop is, but typically a day or two.
I had a 74 ford with bad motor mounts and i only got charged $450. for a new clutch and motor mounts, so i'm not sure how much your cv joints are going to cost. if your smart you'll find a well certified auto shop and just get a quote. i'd estimate right around $500-$1000. but i'm not a pro on some of the 90's cars. but trust me when they pull the motor they pull it right up to the radiator and this can take a while. it took my friends shop 2 hours.
When it comes to hours and prices, a reputable shop will charge by what is known as %26quot;flat rate%26quot; hour. This is determined by a book that is available to repair shops and gives an estimate of how long it should take to replace parts. This will not be available to you or any other customer to look at, so don't bother asking. The bottom line is that you need to shop around and get an estimate. You should dismiss both the lowest and highest priced places. The highest will most likely be the dealership and the lowest will probably be a shop that has never done one before and has no clue as to the trouble a Probe is. So that leaves the others. That will give you an estimate of what it will cost. Do you have a sentimental attatchment to the car? If so, then you will probably want to get the car fixed. If not, then seriously consider shopping around for another car and see what kind of trade in you can get for yours. The trade in value won't be much, but will be better than putting money into what you have and not getting that much more for it on trade. The time it takes for the actual job and the time it takes for the shop to get your car finished is actually 2 different things. If the shop had ALL the possible parts that is needed to complete the job waiting there when you get your car there then the time would be a lot quicker than the actual time that it takes. The actual time involves tearing down your car, seeing what is needed (parts), then ordering the parts and waiting on the parts people to deliver them. That can in some cases almost double the time that it would take for the actual repair. Most shops are not out to rip anyone off. The prices that are charged are to cover overhead, and to try to make a fair and honest living for their families. Then there is the government regulations from the DNR and EPA just to name a couple. So once again, bottom line, shop around and get prices then compare that cost to the cost of replacing the car. Then let your pocketbook be your guide.
How long should it take for a shop to change the clutch on my 91 Ford Probe GL?
They have to pull the engine, so it's going to run close to $1,000 :(
How long should it take for a shop to change the clutch on my 91 Ford Probe GL?
Ford Probe *cringe*.... Unless it is like brand new with 25,000 miles on it or less just get a new car.....
Really you know what, you are going to get ripped off if you go to a shop anyway so I don't know if you are going to want to take it to get fixed. I mean if you have someone that you know and is good with cars all you have to do is followed, Well really it's all about how long it will take you. I know that we had to do that in ours and most of the work is lifting the engine up. If you lift the engine out it should take a few hours depending if you know what you are doing. For a shop to do that it will be like more money than the car is worth. I know how much fun these are to drive. So basically don't take it to a mechanic. I know because I am one and I was sick of getting kicked in the A** When I took my cars to the shop, so have good luck
Depends on how busy the shop is, but typically a day or two.
I had a 74 ford with bad motor mounts and i only got charged $450. for a new clutch and motor mounts, so i'm not sure how much your cv joints are going to cost. if your smart you'll find a well certified auto shop and just get a quote. i'd estimate right around $500-$1000. but i'm not a pro on some of the 90's cars. but trust me when they pull the motor they pull it right up to the radiator and this can take a while. it took my friends shop 2 hours.
When it comes to hours and prices, a reputable shop will charge by what is known as %26quot;flat rate%26quot; hour. This is determined by a book that is available to repair shops and gives an estimate of how long it should take to replace parts. This will not be available to you or any other customer to look at, so don't bother asking. The bottom line is that you need to shop around and get an estimate. You should dismiss both the lowest and highest priced places. The highest will most likely be the dealership and the lowest will probably be a shop that has never done one before and has no clue as to the trouble a Probe is. So that leaves the others. That will give you an estimate of what it will cost. Do you have a sentimental attatchment to the car? If so, then you will probably want to get the car fixed. If not, then seriously consider shopping around for another car and see what kind of trade in you can get for yours. The trade in value won't be much, but will be better than putting money into what you have and not getting that much more for it on trade. The time it takes for the actual job and the time it takes for the shop to get your car finished is actually 2 different things. If the shop had ALL the possible parts that is needed to complete the job waiting there when you get your car there then the time would be a lot quicker than the actual time that it takes. The actual time involves tearing down your car, seeing what is needed (parts), then ordering the parts and waiting on the parts people to deliver them. That can in some cases almost double the time that it would take for the actual repair. Most shops are not out to rip anyone off. The prices that are charged are to cover overhead, and to try to make a fair and honest living for their families. Then there is the government regulations from the DNR and EPA just to name a couple. So once again, bottom line, shop around and get prices then compare that cost to the cost of replacing the car. Then let your pocketbook be your guide.
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
i took the screws off the cv's and it doesn't act like it wants to move
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
Need more info, is it the driveshaft between the front axle and the transfer case of the front cv shafts
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
If you are trying to remove the CV joint with axle or the front drive-shaft and you have remover everything that is needed then the unit is just stuck and you will need to apply more pressure to pop it out..........email drawing a circle
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
Need more info, is it the driveshaft between the front axle and the transfer case of the front cv shafts
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
If you are trying to remove the CV joint with axle or the front drive-shaft and you have remover everything that is needed then the unit is just stuck and you will need to apply more pressure to pop it out..........
How do i replace transmission fluid 98 citroen saxo 1litre?
changed cv joint,dont know how to replace transmission fluid
How do i replace transmission fluid 98 citroen saxo 1litre?
The easiest way is to take it to a lube shop. It's cheaper in the long run. Watch them as they change it. You'll be able to do next time.
How do i replace transmission fluid 98 citroen saxo 1litre?
The easiest way is to take it to a lube shop. It's cheaper in the long run. Watch them as they change it. You'll be able to do next time.
Do i have to drain manual transmission fluid when changing half shaft?
We are going to replace a drivers side halfshaft for a bad cv joint on a 1992 Honda Accord with manual transmisssion. I thought I heard that you have to drain that fluid before doing that, but the chilton manual explains the steps to do it but does not mention that so I am confused. Please can someone who is truly knowledgable help answer this. Thank you.
Do i have to drain manual transmission fluid when changing half shaft?
I have replaced thousands of cv shafts and never once drained the fluid first. You should however put a pan under the trans when you seperate the inner cv joint from the trans as some will spill out. Replace the axle and then fill the manual trans up with proper fluid. Note, alot of Hondas dont use 80w90, alot use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, so dont ruin your trans by using the wrong fluid, check your manual. Good answer Dodge, gave u a thumbs up.
Do i have to drain manual transmission fluid when changing half shaft?
if you jack it up high enough on that side it will only loose a small amount,there's no need to drain it,the amount you loose will be very small and it can be re-filled once the shaft is replaced,good luck.
well if you have it jack up on one side you will lose some but not all of it and you could drain it it would be less of a mess if you did and really it wouldnt hurt to refresh it either with new
Do i have to drain manual transmission fluid when changing half shaft?
I have replaced thousands of cv shafts and never once drained the fluid first. You should however put a pan under the trans when you seperate the inner cv joint from the trans as some will spill out. Replace the axle and then fill the manual trans up with proper fluid. Note, alot of Hondas dont use 80w90, alot use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid, so dont ruin your trans by using the wrong fluid, check your manual. Good answer Dodge, gave u a thumbs up.
Do i have to drain manual transmission fluid when changing half shaft?
if you jack it up high enough on that side it will only loose a small amount,there's no need to drain it,the amount you loose will be very small and it can be re-filled once the shaft is replaced,good luck.
well if you have it jack up on one side you will lose some but not all of it and you could drain it it would be less of a mess if you did and really it wouldnt hurt to refresh it either with new
Nissan NX 2000...anyone ever change the cv joints on a 5 speed?
Web pages are saying we need a special tool to hold gears in? Some ppl said they worked at nissan dealers and didn't need the tools...is this true?
Nissan NX 2000...anyone ever change the cv joints on a 5 speed?
you dont need any special tools to hold gears in, it's pretty simple actually
Nissan NX 2000...anyone ever change the cv joints on a 5 speed?
you dont need any special tools to hold gears in, it's pretty simple actually
Clio cv boot problem???
Hello to you all well I recently bought a clio 1.2 1995....%26amp; fixed the cv boot of front LH tyre cause the car was making noise when i make left turn...but now i get a very faded sound when i make a right turn...so does this mean that I need to change CV boot of RH wheel or does i need to change the whole CV JOINT...%26amp; does this work (if i decide to go ahead) sounds expensive or not....hope to get some answers many thanks to all for reading????
Clio cv boot problem???
Tony my fellow Welshman,, CV joints,, you can get recon complete drive shafts,, go to a motor factors and price them up,, in the UK half shafts are on rear wheel drive vehicles only,, on front wheel drive vehicles we call them drive shafts,,and the ends are called CV joints (constant velocity joints) it is much easier to change the complete shaft rather than just a CV joint,, usually if you put the car on full lock and drive round in a tight circle you will hear a clicking sound if a joint is worn try on both locks (in a car park) ,,, plus I am not sure if you can actually change the CV joints on this model it may be a complete shaft with joints already fitted (recon) much cheaper than new ones,,, check with the motor factors !
I hope I have helped you; Good Luck !
Clio cv boot problem???
Thanks for best answer,,clean out old grease from CV joint,,with brake cleaner and rags,, get the right grease for CV joints,,(graphite grease) grease it back up (well) re-fit the boots,, checking their in good nick,,fit new cable ties,, clean up mess,,job done. good luck Taff ! let me know !
Greasing is a temp job,,as long as your boots are in tact keeping the grease in and the water out you can get away with it for a good while keep an ear out for the noise coming back and getting louder.once again good luck Taff !
If you are getting noise from a CV joint, its best to replace the entire joint, as there is probably some mechanical damage to the joint.
You can sometimes get an entire assembly of InnerCV-Shaft-OuterCV for just a few dollars more than buying the just the inner and outer joints separately.
when you have problems with the cv axels it's best to change both,,, and with what they cost (at least here in the US) it's cheaper, (Time and effort) to replace the whole axle. The main thing to remember is make sure that you install them correctly if they don't CLICK into place they will work but make noise and possible pop back out while driving Good luck
most of the time a bad cv joint will make a popping noise on a turn i would check wheel bearings
Forget the boot. You're in the market for two half shafts as soon as you start hearing noise turning in both directions. It's actually less expensive to install complete re-manufactured half shafts rather than than individual CV Joints. It's cleaner and takes less time replacing an *inner and outer CV joint and an axle all together as a unit. That *unit is called a half shaft.
If you don't believe me total up all bad CV Joints and the cost of labor disassemble the old ones from the axles and installing new ones.
Price half shafts at any auto parts store. Renault Clio autos are very rare in America. I'm unable to send you a price for a half shaft.
If the CV joint has only recently started to make a noise you may be lucky and get way with only re-greasing the joint.
You will need to remove the whole drive shaft, remove the CV joint boots, use some petrol to clean out the old grease. Then re-pack the joint with fresh new CV joint grease. Replace the CV joint boot with a new joint and then replace the drive shaft.
Ja.
Clio cv boot problem???
Tony my fellow Welshman,, CV joints,, you can get recon complete drive shafts,, go to a motor factors and price them up,, in the UK half shafts are on rear wheel drive vehicles only,, on front wheel drive vehicles we call them drive shafts,,and the ends are called CV joints (constant velocity joints) it is much easier to change the complete shaft rather than just a CV joint,, usually if you put the car on full lock and drive round in a tight circle you will hear a clicking sound if a joint is worn try on both locks (in a car park) ,,, plus I am not sure if you can actually change the CV joints on this model it may be a complete shaft with joints already fitted (recon) much cheaper than new ones,,, check with the motor factors !
I hope I have helped you; Good Luck !
Clio cv boot problem???
Thanks for best answer,,clean out old grease from CV joint,,with brake cleaner and rags,, get the right grease for CV joints,,(graphite grease) grease it back up (well) re-fit the boots,, checking their in good nick,,fit new cable ties,, clean up mess,,job done. good luck Taff ! let me know !
Report Abuse
Greasing is a temp job,,as long as your boots are in tact keeping the grease in and the water out you can get away with it for a good while keep an ear out for the noise coming back and getting louder.once again good luck Taff !
Report Abuse
If you are getting noise from a CV joint, its best to replace the entire joint, as there is probably some mechanical damage to the joint.
You can sometimes get an entire assembly of InnerCV-Shaft-OuterCV for just a few dollars more than buying the just the inner and outer joints separately.
when you have problems with the cv axels it's best to change both,,, and with what they cost (at least here in the US) it's cheaper, (Time and effort) to replace the whole axle. The main thing to remember is make sure that you install them correctly if they don't CLICK into place they will work but make noise and possible pop back out while driving Good luck
most of the time a bad cv joint will make a popping noise on a turn i would check wheel bearings
Forget the boot. You're in the market for two half shafts as soon as you start hearing noise turning in both directions. It's actually less expensive to install complete re-manufactured half shafts rather than than individual CV Joints. It's cleaner and takes less time replacing an *inner and outer CV joint and an axle all together as a unit. That *unit is called a half shaft.
If you don't believe me total up all bad CV Joints and the cost of labor disassemble the old ones from the axles and installing new ones.
Price half shafts at any auto parts store. Renault Clio autos are very rare in America. I'm unable to send you a price for a half shaft.
If the CV joint has only recently started to make a noise you may be lucky and get way with only re-greasing the joint.
You will need to remove the whole drive shaft, remove the CV joint boots, use some petrol to clean out the old grease. Then re-pack the joint with fresh new CV joint grease. Replace the CV joint boot with a new joint and then replace the drive shaft.
Ja.
Can I change my controll arm/ball joint assembly without removing the CV nut?
I dont have the 32 mm socket and Im replacing the whole control arm on a 2000 mazda 626 2.0L LX
Can I change my controll arm/ball joint assembly without removing the CV nut?
NO! You will need to get your hands on that Socket.
Can I change my controll arm/ball joint assembly without removing the CV nut?
NO.....and as far as the 32mm nut...every parts store has loan-a-tool program and will loan u the socket...
or if u want u can buy a cheap one form ur local import store.....like harbor freight.....
** also always the option to go buy one form lowes sears snap-on or matco....hair bands asp hosting
Can I change my controll arm/ball joint assembly without removing the CV nut?
NO! You will need to get your hands on that Socket.
Can I change my controll arm/ball joint assembly without removing the CV nut?
NO.....and as far as the 32mm nut...every parts store has loan-a-tool program and will loan u the socket...
or if u want u can buy a cheap one form ur local import store.....like harbor freight.....
** also always the option to go buy one form lowes sears snap-on or matco....
Is it hard to change cv joints on a hyundai sonata v6 1996?
and should i change both and how much would a job like this cost.
Is it hard to change cv joints on a hyundai sonata v6 1996?
It depends on if they offer a split boot repair kit. If they do then it should be fairly easy.
Is it hard to change cv joints on a hyundai sonata v6 1996?
s
Rebuilt Hyundai Axle Assembly
In many cases it is better to replace the entire Hyundai axle shaft assembly, instead of just replacing a bad cv joint. Axle assemblies are used primarily in front wheel drive cars, but they are also used on 4 wheel drive cars and trucks, and are used on most high end German rear wheel drive cars. The Hyundai axle is used to seamlessly transmit the torque form the transmission to the wheels. The axle shafts typically have a cv joint at both ends of the axle, but there are cases where the axle will have a cv joint at one end and a u-joint at the other end. Dont pay huge service fees to have your Hyundai cv joints replaced, when you can save hundreds of dollars replacing the entire Hyundai axle shaft, and in most cases you can even change the axle your self with some basic tools. Our axle shafts have brand new cv joints and come with a great warranty. At Drivewire you get the highest quality Hyundai Axle Assembly at discount pricing with free ground shipping. Drivewire carries all the major manufacturers of Hyundai axle assembly including; Genuine, empi, and acei axles and can save you up to 80% the cost of having the joints serviced.
Easy. Just change one side(bad side). Depending on location(city and shop) $100
Cheaper if you find a private party, it's not a highly technical job. A mechanically inclined non mechanic could do it.
Is it hard to change cv joints on a hyundai sonata v6 1996?
It depends on if they offer a split boot repair kit. If they do then it should be fairly easy.
Is it hard to change cv joints on a hyundai sonata v6 1996?
s
Rebuilt Hyundai Axle Assembly
In many cases it is better to replace the entire Hyundai axle shaft assembly, instead of just replacing a bad cv joint. Axle assemblies are used primarily in front wheel drive cars, but they are also used on 4 wheel drive cars and trucks, and are used on most high end German rear wheel drive cars. The Hyundai axle is used to seamlessly transmit the torque form the transmission to the wheels. The axle shafts typically have a cv joint at both ends of the axle, but there are cases where the axle will have a cv joint at one end and a u-joint at the other end. Dont pay huge service fees to have your Hyundai cv joints replaced, when you can save hundreds of dollars replacing the entire Hyundai axle shaft, and in most cases you can even change the axle your self with some basic tools. Our axle shafts have brand new cv joints and come with a great warranty. At Drivewire you get the highest quality Hyundai Axle Assembly at discount pricing with free ground shipping. Drivewire carries all the major manufacturers of Hyundai axle assembly including; Genuine, empi, and acei axles and can save you up to 80% the cost of having the joints serviced.
Easy. Just change one side(bad side). Depending on location(city and shop) $100
Cheaper if you find a private party, it's not a highly technical job. A mechanically inclined non mechanic could do it.
Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?
i have replaced a lot of cv axles never just the joint. if you replace the whole axle it is pretty easy
Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?
Its much easier and cost effective to replace the whole axle then to replace just the cv joints. Either way you would have to pull the axle completely out.
Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?
Used to change them all the time. but now it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt shaft for around 50 dollars. Either way it's about an hour and a half labor
I would not take a run at it if you are a novice. If you have some experience working on cars it won't be to difficult. Make sure you have the time to do it, cause it can take a while with a difficult vehicle.
i have it wasnt to bad if you have ever remove the brakes then you was almost there but id get a book it will tell you the steps you have to take.. i do remember the four bolts that hold the spindle was tough to break loose
Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?
Its much easier and cost effective to replace the whole axle then to replace just the cv joints. Either way you would have to pull the axle completely out.
Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?
Used to change them all the time. but now it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt shaft for around 50 dollars. Either way it's about an hour and a half labor
I would not take a run at it if you are a novice. If you have some experience working on cars it won't be to difficult. Make sure you have the time to do it, cause it can take a while with a difficult vehicle.
i have it wasnt to bad if you have ever remove the brakes then you was almost there but id get a book it will tell you the steps you have to take.. i do remember the four bolts that hold the spindle was tough to break loose
Is hard is it to change the inner and outer cv joints on a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4?
Is there any special tools that is needed for this job?
Is hard is it to change the inner and outer cv joints on a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4?
No. It`s a cakewalk.
Is hard is it to change the inner and outer cv joints on a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4?
Generally speaking, replacing the C/V boots is a job best left to a shop. It's hard,dirty work. Replacement of the entire shafts is more within the grasp of a DIY; but it's still a a difficult job. You might find the detailed procedure at the Auto-zone website.
Is hard is it to change the inner and outer cv joints on a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4?
No. It`s a cakewalk.
Is hard is it to change the inner and outer cv joints on a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4?
Generally speaking, replacing the C/V boots is a job best left to a shop. It's hard,dirty work. Replacement of the entire shafts is more within the grasp of a DIY; but it's still a a difficult job. You might find the detailed procedure at the Auto-zone website.
VW passat 1999 how hard would it e to change my cv joints on this car as well as the brakes.?
i dont have mush mechanical experience, but very novice. should i do it? how much would a shop charge? for driver and passenger outer cv joints?
VW passat 1999 how hard would it e to change my cv joints on this car as well as the brakes.?
I guess it depends on a couple of things. Do you really %26quot;want%26quot; to do the work yourself? Do you have the time, energy, and workspace? Do you have a good, sturdy jack, and jack stands?
CV joint and Brake repair is straightforward, however, if you've never completed a task like this, it will take you some time to figure things out. There are torque specifications involved. You may need to purchase a tool or two. Specifically, a special bit to loosen the CV joint bolts. If you really, really, really want to do it yourself, take the time to crawl under the car and look around at A) what you want to replace and B) what needs to be taken off to get to what you want to replace.
Working on your own car can be rewarding, however, if you don't have the time or energy to complete the task, perhaps it's best to pay a trusted mechanic. Not Midas or Meineke or even the dealer. Those places will screw almost every time.
VW passat 1999 how hard would it e to change my cv joints on this car as well as the brakes.?
You need special tools to change CV joints, that isn't usually a do it yourself job, if it's just brake pads you need to change, then you can do that at home
u cant do it...shop gets 300 to 400 for both sides...[ cv joints ]
Best get half shaft axles, need to do it in a shop. Including brakes about $400.
An easy task. I've changed several. A pair of cir-clip pliers needed. CV are some time exchange parts, which make them cheap to by. Get a Haynes type manual.
no, its not something you can easily do at home, brakes are easy and you can do them, cv joints require much more work. and the previous poster was correct, its actually cheaper to get the axle shafts with the cv joints then it is for just the cv joints (and it will save you time).
on a passat, the cv joint replacement will cost you well over $1000. I believe the parts are $400 a peice, plus labor. consumerguideauto.com says $1375@$50 an hour labor.
If it was me, and i had the room, id do it at home... its hard to tell you whether you should do it yourself or take it in. if you want to learn, and dont mind not having a car for a few days, then do it at home... youre not going to be able to do it as fast as a mechanic, but if you do them yourself, you know they are done right... its a fine line for anyone.. do i learn to do them myself, saving me thousands of dollars later in my life... or take them in and hope the mechanic is competent enough to handle this job?
if you decide just to replace the joints, go to autozone and they will rent you the cv joint tools.. obviously youre going to need jack stands and a floor jack if you dont have them.
Poor choice for DIY, need 3/4 inch tools and very long breaker bar(4-6 foot long!) and a good feel for torque above 250 Ft lbs. Also have to disconnect and reconnect ball joints(critical suspension parts)
Get bids from shops
Why do you need to change CV's/Axles??????????????
Brakes- you can damage ABS components costing 1,000's of dollars by doing your brakes wrong so you may want to pass on that. ABS requires special procedures these days when it comes to compressing the calipers and a working knowledge of your rotors is pretty much necessary or you may achieve an unsatisfacory result(pulsating pedal etc.)
I would recommend you get professional assistance.
ASE Cert Auto Tech, 92 GTI16V 2.0L
VW passat 1999 how hard would it e to change my cv joints on this car as well as the brakes.?
I guess it depends on a couple of things. Do you really %26quot;want%26quot; to do the work yourself? Do you have the time, energy, and workspace? Do you have a good, sturdy jack, and jack stands?
CV joint and Brake repair is straightforward, however, if you've never completed a task like this, it will take you some time to figure things out. There are torque specifications involved. You may need to purchase a tool or two. Specifically, a special bit to loosen the CV joint bolts. If you really, really, really want to do it yourself, take the time to crawl under the car and look around at A) what you want to replace and B) what needs to be taken off to get to what you want to replace.
Working on your own car can be rewarding, however, if you don't have the time or energy to complete the task, perhaps it's best to pay a trusted mechanic. Not Midas or Meineke or even the dealer. Those places will screw almost every time.
VW passat 1999 how hard would it e to change my cv joints on this car as well as the brakes.?
You need special tools to change CV joints, that isn't usually a do it yourself job, if it's just brake pads you need to change, then you can do that at home
u cant do it...shop gets 300 to 400 for both sides...[ cv joints ]
Best get half shaft axles, need to do it in a shop. Including brakes about $400.
An easy task. I've changed several. A pair of cir-clip pliers needed. CV are some time exchange parts, which make them cheap to by. Get a Haynes type manual.
no, its not something you can easily do at home, brakes are easy and you can do them, cv joints require much more work. and the previous poster was correct, its actually cheaper to get the axle shafts with the cv joints then it is for just the cv joints (and it will save you time).
on a passat, the cv joint replacement will cost you well over $1000. I believe the parts are $400 a peice, plus labor. consumerguideauto.com says $1375@$50 an hour labor.
If it was me, and i had the room, id do it at home... its hard to tell you whether you should do it yourself or take it in. if you want to learn, and dont mind not having a car for a few days, then do it at home... youre not going to be able to do it as fast as a mechanic, but if you do them yourself, you know they are done right... its a fine line for anyone.. do i learn to do them myself, saving me thousands of dollars later in my life... or take them in and hope the mechanic is competent enough to handle this job?
if you decide just to replace the joints, go to autozone and they will rent you the cv joint tools.. obviously youre going to need jack stands and a floor jack if you dont have them.
Poor choice for DIY, need 3/4 inch tools and very long breaker bar(4-6 foot long!) and a good feel for torque above 250 Ft lbs. Also have to disconnect and reconnect ball joints(critical suspension parts)
Get bids from shops
Why do you need to change CV's/Axles??????????????
Brakes- you can damage ABS components costing 1,000's of dollars by doing your brakes wrong so you may want to pass on that. ABS requires special procedures these days when it comes to compressing the calipers and a working knowledge of your rotors is pretty much necessary or you may achieve an unsatisfacory result(pulsating pedal etc.)
I would recommend you get professional assistance.
ASE Cert Auto Tech, 92 GTI16V 2.0L
Noise when changing gear?
I have just changed the cv joint in a ford laser, and when i change gear there is a jolt, drives fine, just the jolt when changing gear i am not sure about
Noise when changing gear?
To me that sounds like the clutch is slipping, go to a garage and get it checked.
Noise when changing gear?
If it didn't do it before changing the cv joint, more likely you installed a deffective part or some times the ball bearings that are placed inside the cv joint housing will come off its base and create some unusual problems. Good Luck.isthismarriedmanjustflirting software
Noise when changing gear?
To me that sounds like the clutch is slipping, go to a garage and get it checked.
Noise when changing gear?
If it didn't do it before changing the cv joint, more likely you installed a deffective part or some times the ball bearings that are placed inside the cv joint housing will come off its base and create some unusual problems. Good Luck.
How often do i have to change the cv boots or joints?
do the cv boots or joints affect all the wheels or the front wheels only?
How often do i have to change the cv boots or joints?
Only if they leak or are making noise...
I've seen cars with 225000 miles with orgional cv boots
How often do i have to change the cv boots or joints?
cv boots need only be changed when damaged,cut.
some joints can be lubed others only need to be changed when they start to bind or make noise,usually caused after
the boot is cut and allows the grease to leak out. on front wheel drive vehicles has cv joints as rear wheel drive vehicles
have u joints in the drive shaft.
CV boots are lasting much longer on newer cars. Older cars boots would split open more easily and lose their joint grease as well as become contaminated with road dirt. So as long as the boot remains intact, you can expect CV joints to last maybe even the life of the car. Usually there's plenty of warning when they start to wear out, with clicking noises on turns etc. They're also used in 4 wheel drive applications in other drive shafts.
Change boots right when they split. Noise when they corner and accelerate and click the CV has to much slack. Clicking joints have been know to fail and need rebuilding or replacement.. All wheel drive cars may have 8 or more CV joints.
WHEN THEY ARE CUT, TORN, LEAKING OR MAKING A NOISE.
THEY AFFECT THE FRONT WHEELS ON FWD VEHICLES. AND THEY AFFECT THE FRONT AND REAR ON AWD VEHICLES.
When they need replacing
If it ain't broke don't fix it
How often do i have to change the cv boots or joints?
Only if they leak or are making noise...
I've seen cars with 225000 miles with orgional cv boots
How often do i have to change the cv boots or joints?
cv boots need only be changed when damaged,cut.
some joints can be lubed others only need to be changed when they start to bind or make noise,usually caused after
the boot is cut and allows the grease to leak out. on front wheel drive vehicles has cv joints as rear wheel drive vehicles
have u joints in the drive shaft.
CV boots are lasting much longer on newer cars. Older cars boots would split open more easily and lose their joint grease as well as become contaminated with road dirt. So as long as the boot remains intact, you can expect CV joints to last maybe even the life of the car. Usually there's plenty of warning when they start to wear out, with clicking noises on turns etc. They're also used in 4 wheel drive applications in other drive shafts.
Change boots right when they split. Noise when they corner and accelerate and click the CV has to much slack. Clicking joints have been know to fail and need rebuilding or replacement.. All wheel drive cars may have 8 or more CV joints.
WHEN THEY ARE CUT, TORN, LEAKING OR MAKING A NOISE.
THEY AFFECT THE FRONT WHEELS ON FWD VEHICLES. AND THEY AFFECT THE FRONT AND REAR ON AWD VEHICLES.
When they need replacing
If it ain't broke don't fix it
Whats the worst that could happen if i dont change the cv joints or boots on my car?
Arr if you don't replace the boot the joint loses its grease and the joint wheres out, it just makes a noise, the way they are constructed they will still give you drive and you can drive them as long as you can put up with noise, nothin to worry about most of these experienced blokes don't know what there talking about. I
Whats the worst that could happen if i dont change the cv joints or boots on my car?
The worst thing, would be that the axle falls off and you are stranded somewhere.
Whats the worst that could happen if i dont change the cv joints or boots on my car?
The car will initially steer of line and could encroach into oncoming traffic
The joints will freeze up and your car stops.
Totally agree with Fordman,,,I'd get the work done if I were you !
both answers are correct . and you could mess up your car too.
Well, a broken CV joint is not going to make the wheel fall off or anything exciting like that. But it will interrupt the flow of power to the wheels. And without power, your car won't go anywhere.
Only one joint on one end breaks, the other end stays attached to your spindle while you're driving 60 mph. The loose end of the spinning axle could crack the transmission housing and damage steering components beyond repair. So if you put off this repair you could end up paying ten times as much if you wait for a total failure. Good luck!
its very dangrous, you could be in trouble if the joints freeze up or is broken off all together
Not repairing this problem when first found could place extra vibration and loading on wheel bearings and other related axle items. It may sound expensive not but if you leave it the price could increase vastly.
Here in the UK you can will not pass the annual MOT test with a split boot.
They fall off making your wheels snap and you could crash hurting yourself and/ or others.
The worst that could happen?
You could die
It don't get much worse than that
Whats the worst that could happen if i dont change the cv joints or boots on my car?
The worst thing, would be that the axle falls off and you are stranded somewhere.
Whats the worst that could happen if i dont change the cv joints or boots on my car?
The car will initially steer of line and could encroach into oncoming traffic
The joints will freeze up and your car stops.
Totally agree with Fordman,,,I'd get the work done if I were you !
both answers are correct . and you could mess up your car too.
Well, a broken CV joint is not going to make the wheel fall off or anything exciting like that. But it will interrupt the flow of power to the wheels. And without power, your car won't go anywhere.
Only one joint on one end breaks, the other end stays attached to your spindle while you're driving 60 mph. The loose end of the spinning axle could crack the transmission housing and damage steering components beyond repair. So if you put off this repair you could end up paying ten times as much if you wait for a total failure. Good luck!
its very dangrous, you could be in trouble if the joints freeze up or is broken off all together
Not repairing this problem when first found could place extra vibration and loading on wheel bearings and other related axle items. It may sound expensive not but if you leave it the price could increase vastly.
Here in the UK you can will not pass the annual MOT test with a split boot.
They fall off making your wheels snap and you could crash hurting yourself and/ or others.
The worst that could happen?
You could die
It don't get much worse than that
How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?
I have the axel off. I just can't get the cv joint off. It the front axel
How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?
See if there is a 'Quik-Boot' kit available for your villager. This is a 2 part boot with clamps. All you would have to do is cut the old clamps, cut the old boot off, put the 'Quik-Boot' on around the joint, add CV grease provided, clamp it in place and viola, done.
How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?
the only thing holding the boot on is a clamp.
just replace the old cv axle with a reman cv axle....it comes preassembled full of grease 2 new boots and a warranty ..what more do you want
There is a nut that attaches the CV joint to the transaxle. You need an inner CV joint removal tool to take it off. You can rent them at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.
Have you looked at the replacement boot? You should not have to take the CV joint off of the axle. The old boot however normally must be cut off. The new one will have an open side on it to wrap it around the axle, and a way to seal it after it's around the axle. There is no need to remove the axle from the vehicle.
As for removal, there are 2 common types of cv joints.
1 requires heating the outer portion of the joint till the bearings come out. Doing this wrong can ruin the half shaft. I don't suggest trying.
The other has retaining clips which may be hidden by old grease. Clean the shaft well, then examine it. You should replace the grease anyway.
It has to be pressed off and the new one pressed back on, that is the only way. Any other way will destroy the parts.
IT WILL EITHER HAVE A SMALL CLIP OR NOTHING HOLDING IT ON.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO JUST ALIGN THE JOINT WITH THE AXLE AND TAP IT OFF WITH A BRASS HAMMER, ITS THAT SIMPLE.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO HAVE IT PRESSED ON AND OFF.
BUT I DO AGREE WITH GETTING A COMPLETE AXLE ASSEMBLY, BALANCED SHAFT, 2 JOINTS, 2 BOOTS, 4 CLAMPS AND A NEW NUT....$69.95 TO 99.95
How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?
See if there is a 'Quik-Boot' kit available for your villager. This is a 2 part boot with clamps. All you would have to do is cut the old clamps, cut the old boot off, put the 'Quik-Boot' on around the joint, add CV grease provided, clamp it in place and viola, done.
How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?
the only thing holding the boot on is a clamp.
just replace the old cv axle with a reman cv axle....it comes preassembled full of grease 2 new boots and a warranty ..what more do you want
There is a nut that attaches the CV joint to the transaxle. You need an inner CV joint removal tool to take it off. You can rent them at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.
Have you looked at the replacement boot? You should not have to take the CV joint off of the axle. The old boot however normally must be cut off. The new one will have an open side on it to wrap it around the axle, and a way to seal it after it's around the axle. There is no need to remove the axle from the vehicle.
As for removal, there are 2 common types of cv joints.
1 requires heating the outer portion of the joint till the bearings come out. Doing this wrong can ruin the half shaft. I don't suggest trying.
The other has retaining clips which may be hidden by old grease. Clean the shaft well, then examine it. You should replace the grease anyway.
It has to be pressed off and the new one pressed back on, that is the only way. Any other way will destroy the parts.
IT WILL EITHER HAVE A SMALL CLIP OR NOTHING HOLDING IT ON.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO JUST ALIGN THE JOINT WITH THE AXLE AND TAP IT OFF WITH A BRASS HAMMER, ITS THAT SIMPLE.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO HAVE IT PRESSED ON AND OFF.
BUT I DO AGREE WITH GETTING A COMPLETE AXLE ASSEMBLY, BALANCED SHAFT, 2 JOINTS, 2 BOOTS, 4 CLAMPS AND A NEW NUT....$69.95 TO 99.95
Knocking noise coming from the front of my car? CV Joints? or Wheel Bearing, or something else?
This happened just after my service from my mechanic, but i was on the freeway and a knocking sound started to come from the fromt rhs of the car, it's a 1990 Honda CRX SIR, it's wierd because it only happens when the car is a it's normal operating temperature, after about 20mins of driving and when i reach speeds above 60km/h, i'm not sure if it's one of the cv joint boots, because when i lift the hood after i have driven i can smell rubber. Any answers would be much appreciated, it's really starting to worry me, it feels like something is going to fall off. i went to pedders suspension and i am changing the cv joint on thursday.
Knocking noise coming from the front of my car? CV Joints? or Wheel Bearing, or something else?
Heres a dumb response: Was it in the shop for a water pump? or hose or anything to do with the cooling system? If it was, there is air in the cooling system that has to be bled out, That will cause a popping noise every so often when it is hot..........
the rubber smell..... maybe something is rubbing, is the car lowered? that will cause noises and rubbing.......
I was a honda mechanic for 7 years, and i have come across this
Knocking noise coming from the front of my car? CV Joints? or Wheel Bearing, or something else?
i would check to see if the under guards are tightened up properly. the wheel arch under cover etc mechanic's take these off sometimes to properly service the car and rarely tighten them back up.
a cv joint will be noisy around corners at all speeds and a wheel bearing will usually make more of a whirring type noise.
if it happened after a service take it back there- maybe they left something loose
MORE THAN LIKELY ITS YOUR AXLE BEARINGS IF IT IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ! THE REASON IT HAPPENS AFTER IT GETS WARM IS BECAUSE WHEN A BEARING STARTS TO FAIL IT EATS THE SEALS OUT AND YOU HAVE NO LUBRICATION IN THE BEARING, SO WHEN YOU DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE THE TEMPERATURE GETS UP AND THE HEAT CAUSES THE PROTECTIVE BOOT TO START TO MELT. THE WAY TO FIX THE PROBLEM IS REPLACE THE AXLE ASSEMBLY THIS COMES COMPLETE WITH THE NEW BEARINGS PRESSED ON AND NEW SEALS AND NEW BOOTS.
Knocking noise coming from the front of my car? CV Joints? or Wheel Bearing, or something else?
Heres a dumb response: Was it in the shop for a water pump? or hose or anything to do with the cooling system? If it was, there is air in the cooling system that has to be bled out, That will cause a popping noise every so often when it is hot..........
the rubber smell..... maybe something is rubbing, is the car lowered? that will cause noises and rubbing.......
I was a honda mechanic for 7 years, and i have come across this
Knocking noise coming from the front of my car? CV Joints? or Wheel Bearing, or something else?
i would check to see if the under guards are tightened up properly. the wheel arch under cover etc mechanic's take these off sometimes to properly service the car and rarely tighten them back up.
a cv joint will be noisy around corners at all speeds and a wheel bearing will usually make more of a whirring type noise.
if it happened after a service take it back there- maybe they left something loose
MORE THAN LIKELY ITS YOUR AXLE BEARINGS IF IT IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ! THE REASON IT HAPPENS AFTER IT GETS WARM IS BECAUSE WHEN A BEARING STARTS TO FAIL IT EATS THE SEALS OUT AND YOU HAVE NO LUBRICATION IN THE BEARING, SO WHEN YOU DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE THE TEMPERATURE GETS UP AND THE HEAT CAUSES THE PROTECTIVE BOOT TO START TO MELT. THE WAY TO FIX THE PROBLEM IS REPLACE THE AXLE ASSEMBLY THIS COMES COMPLETE WITH THE NEW BEARINGS PRESSED ON AND NEW SEALS AND NEW BOOTS.
Help with my 97 cv joint axle installation?
Just changed my 97 Honda civic CV joint axles and........?
My mechanic put them in now the abs light is now on...I'm assuming they might have given me the axle without abs but is there a way to remedy the problem without bring the part back? I was told it's a ring? Also the old ring couldn't fit on the new axles because it was too wide my mechanic said. Is there a site I can purchase the proper ring?
Help with my 97 cv joint axle installation?
Check on the wheel bearings for a open electrical connection.
The ABS (anti-lock braking system) has no connections on the CV joint/axles.
although the ABS light could be signaling that parts of the braking system could be faulty
have it check outhowtobefriendswithagirl how to get a girl with a boyfriend
My mechanic put them in now the abs light is now on...I'm assuming they might have given me the axle without abs but is there a way to remedy the problem without bring the part back? I was told it's a ring? Also the old ring couldn't fit on the new axles because it was too wide my mechanic said. Is there a site I can purchase the proper ring?
Help with my 97 cv joint axle installation?
Check on the wheel bearings for a open electrical connection.
The ABS (anti-lock braking system) has no connections on the CV joint/axles.
although the ABS light could be signaling that parts of the braking system could be faulty
have it check out
CV joint causing vibration?
In my 2003 Camry, whenever I accelerate or drive at higher speeds, the steering wheel and the entire car vibrates. While changing the brake rotors to try and fix the problem, I noticed that the cv joint was cracked and that there was lubrication from inside it all around the axle. Could this be the cause of the vibration?
CV joint causing vibration?
try a tire balance..that is the cause of most highway speed vibration
CV joint causing vibration?
That would be a good start.
definitely it could be. you need to get it replaced before it really messes up your tires and alignment.
CV joint causing vibration?
try a tire balance..that is the cause of most highway speed vibration
CV joint causing vibration?
That would be a good start.
definitely it could be. you need to get it replaced before it really messes up your tires and alignment.
How to change a constant velocity joint rubber boot on a car?
i need to know step by step how to change a rubber boot of a cv joint on a 1993 ford laser 1.6 litre
How to change a constant velocity joint rubber boot on a car?
Check this out... You can get a universal boot. Don't even have to take anything off. Just cut off your old boot, slap some grease in there, cut this universal boot to size, wrap it around and use the provided clamps to secure it. I though it would not seal but to my surprise, it works great. You can get this at Kragen, Chucks, Checkers, or Oreilly, depending on what part of the country you live in. Only like $10.
How to change a constant velocity joint rubber boot on a car?
Try to visit http://www.hflaser.com, I hope it helps.
Information, Services of Vinyl Cutters, Laser Engravers, Laser Cutters and CNC Routers.
How to change a constant velocity joint rubber boot on a car?
Check this out... You can get a universal boot. Don't even have to take anything off. Just cut off your old boot, slap some grease in there, cut this universal boot to size, wrap it around and use the provided clamps to secure it. I though it would not seal but to my surprise, it works great. You can get this at Kragen, Chucks, Checkers, or Oreilly, depending on what part of the country you live in. Only like $10.
How to change a constant velocity joint rubber boot on a car?
Try to visit http://www.hflaser.com, I hope it helps.
Information, Services of Vinyl Cutters, Laser Engravers, Laser Cutters and CNC Routers.
Report Abuse
Suzuki Esteem 1998 CV joint and clutch problems...?
Well the repairs have been done already but i cant help feeling ripped off... a month ago, my car didnt go forward when pressing on the gas.. The motor was running fine, but gears did not go engage. The garage told me the clutch had to be changed.. so they did. It worked fine for 3 weeks and then the same thing happened. Motor running fine, but gears not engaging. They then told me the left CV joint had to be changed. When i was ready to take it home, they told me there was 2 CV joints on the left side??? Is that the case or did i get ripped off? And first of all did i have a bad clutch or could it have been the CV joints all along? Thanks for taking interest.
Suzuki Esteem 1998 CV joint and clutch problems...?
Sounds like your have been and are going to be ripped of again. The CV joints have no effect on the gear selection, to test if the CV joint need to be changed you need to drive the car with the steering wheel turned full lock first to the right and then to the left. If you can hear a knocking noise coming from the front of the car then you do need to have one or both changed.
Between the gear box and the gear stick there is a gear box linkage. Often this linkage can go out of alignment for several reasons. Often plastic bushes in the linkage can become worn and need replacement.
My advice would be to get the car to another garage and ask for a second opinion.
Ja.
Suzuki Esteem 1998 CV joint and clutch problems...?
They replaced CV AXLE.CV axle has two CV(constant velocity)joints...inner and outer.So I assumed they replaced CV AXLE,not just a joint.
Suzuki Esteem 1998 CV joint and clutch problems...?
Sounds like your have been and are going to be ripped of again. The CV joints have no effect on the gear selection, to test if the CV joint need to be changed you need to drive the car with the steering wheel turned full lock first to the right and then to the left. If you can hear a knocking noise coming from the front of the car then you do need to have one or both changed.
Between the gear box and the gear stick there is a gear box linkage. Often this linkage can go out of alignment for several reasons. Often plastic bushes in the linkage can become worn and need replacement.
My advice would be to get the car to another garage and ask for a second opinion.
Ja.
Suzuki Esteem 1998 CV joint and clutch problems...?
They replaced CV AXLE.CV axle has two CV(constant velocity)joints...inner and outer.So I assumed they replaced CV AXLE,not just a joint.
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
Should I stick with the CV joints or change them to U Joints?
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
A Constant Velocity Joint allows the in and out travel of the half shaft of your independent suspension
It has a 6 sided bearing and races (so to speak) inside the boot which should be well lubricated.
This allows more torque to be applied through the axles (half shafts).
U-Joints are not protected enough, have a know lubrication problem and while only having 4 pivot points would not stand up to the constant vibration and bouncing the suspension takes, thus having the floating race of a CV joint is far superior
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
CV joints are stronger than U joints stay with the CV joints.
If you are going to use your Jeep as a Jeep, and not a family truckster, I would definitely recommend getting rid of the CV's. Your ride will be somewhat rougher on the highway, simply from the design differences, but you will appreciate the heavy duty-ness, and piece of mind, once you hit the trail. I did this swap on my '94 GCL 4 years ago, and haven't had a bit of trouble out of them, with tire wear, or being damaged off road. With the help of a buddy, I completed this project in about 3 hours %26quot;jack-up to jack-down%26quot;.
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
A Constant Velocity Joint allows the in and out travel of the half shaft of your independent suspension
It has a 6 sided bearing and races (so to speak) inside the boot which should be well lubricated.
This allows more torque to be applied through the axles (half shafts).
U-Joints are not protected enough, have a know lubrication problem and while only having 4 pivot points would not stand up to the constant vibration and bouncing the suspension takes, thus having the floating race of a CV joint is far superior
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
CV joints are stronger than U joints stay with the CV joints.
If you are going to use your Jeep as a Jeep, and not a family truckster, I would definitely recommend getting rid of the CV's. Your ride will be somewhat rougher on the highway, simply from the design differences, but you will appreciate the heavy duty-ness, and piece of mind, once you hit the trail. I did this swap on my '94 GCL 4 years ago, and haven't had a bit of trouble out of them, with tire wear, or being damaged off road. With the help of a buddy, I completed this project in about 3 hours %26quot;jack-up to jack-down%26quot;.
Cv joint on 05 malibu can i change it myself?
the car shakes a bit when i get up to 75-80 mph and ive changes out all my rims and tires got it aligned so im guessin that is what it is
Cv joint on 05 malibu can i change it myself?
You changed out the wheels / tires? Are these stock? You had the old wheels and tires replaced with new ones? Are you sure there isn't a wheel out of balance? Also, a bad wheel bearing, tire rod or suspension components can cause a shake. Are there any noises?
Cv joint on 05 malibu can i change it myself?
YEah, it sounds like a Tie Rod. Are the tires balanced properly?
A CV joint is a big job, but one you can do yourself if you are mechanically inclined. YOu'll have to remove the wheel, brake housing and hub. Then remove the axle. It pretty much snaps in to place so to speak.
It sounds more like a tie rod end. They make the car shake around that speed and some during acceleration(more of a shutter/during acceleration) if they are going bad. CV joints will make a clicking noise when you turn and will pop if they are going bad and don't tend to make the car shake if going bad, they just make noise.
Weak Struts, Ball Joints or Tie-Rod Ends going Bad. How much weight did it take to Balance Each tire? (More then 1 1/2 Ounces) Possible Bad Tire (Even New Tires can be Defective). Best test is balance the rims without the Tires then mount the tires and Balance Again, What Results do you come up with?home search a scam xp
Cv joint on 05 malibu can i change it myself?
You changed out the wheels / tires? Are these stock? You had the old wheels and tires replaced with new ones? Are you sure there isn't a wheel out of balance? Also, a bad wheel bearing, tire rod or suspension components can cause a shake. Are there any noises?
Cv joint on 05 malibu can i change it myself?
YEah, it sounds like a Tie Rod. Are the tires balanced properly?
A CV joint is a big job, but one you can do yourself if you are mechanically inclined. YOu'll have to remove the wheel, brake housing and hub. Then remove the axle. It pretty much snaps in to place so to speak.
It sounds more like a tie rod end. They make the car shake around that speed and some during acceleration(more of a shutter/during acceleration) if they are going bad. CV joints will make a clicking noise when you turn and will pop if they are going bad and don't tend to make the car shake if going bad, they just make noise.
Weak Struts, Ball Joints or Tie-Rod Ends going Bad. How much weight did it take to Balance Each tire? (More then 1 1/2 Ounces) Possible Bad Tire (Even New Tires can be Defective). Best test is balance the rims without the Tires then mount the tires and Balance Again, What Results do you come up with?
My car wont drive though cv joints changed?
i have changed both cv joints on my peugeot 206 but the car wont drive. seems as though the gear box cant turn the drive shafts. it accasionally catches on but only for a second. i am able to select gears so i dont think the clutch has gone. can anybody help
My car wont drive though cv joints changed?
Ill just bet you didn't overcome the snap ring on the inner CV joints when you *drove then back in. Possibly the new CV joints weren't bored and splined deep enough so they would seat far enough in.
Tear one apart and measure and compare it with one of the old ones you removed. You'll see exactly how deep the origional joint went as the oil seal will have left a distinct mark on the outside of the old - inner joint shaft.
My car wont drive though cv joints changed?
Either the clutch is bad, the gearbox is bad, or they didn't properly install the shafts.
I agree with country, if it drove prior to changing the axle shafts, then they are either incorrect or not in all the way. Best bet is to get it to a reputable repair facility and have a specialist have a look and give you an estimate on repairing it properly.
My car wont drive though cv joints changed?
Ill just bet you didn't overcome the snap ring on the inner CV joints when you *drove then back in. Possibly the new CV joints weren't bored and splined deep enough so they would seat far enough in.
Tear one apart and measure and compare it with one of the old ones you removed. You'll see exactly how deep the origional joint went as the oil seal will have left a distinct mark on the outside of the old - inner joint shaft.
My car wont drive though cv joints changed?
Either the clutch is bad, the gearbox is bad, or they didn't properly install the shafts.
I agree with country, if it drove prior to changing the axle shafts, then they are either incorrect or not in all the way. Best bet is to get it to a reputable repair facility and have a specialist have a look and give you an estimate on repairing it properly.
Whats a CV Joint and its job in the car?
I had mine changed in my suv.
Reason is that it has a pop sound while making tight turns.
Whats a CV Joint and its job in the car?
a cv shaft is your axles. each axle consists of an axle shaft, an inner cv joint and boot, and an outer cv joint and boot. the purpose of the boots is to hold the grease in and keep the joints lubricated. when the boot develops a tear, the tear gets worse and worse, grease gets thrown out of the joint and boot, it loses lubrication and the joint cracks. that was your popping noise when you turn.
Whats a CV Joint and its job in the car?
It's a flexable joint on the front axle which allows you to turn the wheels while driving. And that's exactly the sound it will make when it's going bad.
Reason is that it has a pop sound while making tight turns.
Whats a CV Joint and its job in the car?
a cv shaft is your axles. each axle consists of an axle shaft, an inner cv joint and boot, and an outer cv joint and boot. the purpose of the boots is to hold the grease in and keep the joints lubricated. when the boot develops a tear, the tear gets worse and worse, grease gets thrown out of the joint and boot, it loses lubrication and the joint cracks. that was your popping noise when you turn.
Whats a CV Joint and its job in the car?
It's a flexable joint on the front axle which allows you to turn the wheels while driving. And that's exactly the sound it will make when it's going bad.
Changing a Laguna CV Boot?
Has anyone removed an outer CV joint on a 99 Laguna to replace the boot/gaitor?
I've stripped the calipers etc off and got access to a circlip at the back of the cv joint. I've tried for 2 hours to get it open.
Will this release the joint when i finally get it out or am i barking up the wrong tree?
Changing a Laguna CV Boot?
Bark..Bark.. that's just a piece...
The c/v joint is just the center of one of the front 'short shaft' drive shafts. One end connects by a splined end into the transmission and the other by a splined end through the steering knuckle bearing(not a bolted flange). If your lucky your car is one which you can press the shaft out of the seat without removing part of the knuckle from the car.
If your just replacing the boot %26amp; you have a 1 piece replacement boot, one end must be free. If you have a 'split' temp boot you can replace it where it is without removing anything but the old boot.
Changing a Laguna CV Boot?
if your not mechanically minded get yourself a two piece gaiter.very easy to fit .nothing to take of
I've stripped the calipers etc off and got access to a circlip at the back of the cv joint. I've tried for 2 hours to get it open.
Will this release the joint when i finally get it out or am i barking up the wrong tree?
Changing a Laguna CV Boot?
Bark..Bark.. that's just a piece...
The c/v joint is just the center of one of the front 'short shaft' drive shafts. One end connects by a splined end into the transmission and the other by a splined end through the steering knuckle bearing(not a bolted flange). If your lucky your car is one which you can press the shaft out of the seat without removing part of the knuckle from the car.
If your just replacing the boot %26amp; you have a 1 piece replacement boot, one end must be free. If you have a 'split' temp boot you can replace it where it is without removing anything but the old boot.
Changing a Laguna CV Boot?
if your not mechanically minded get yourself a two piece gaiter.very easy to fit .nothing to take of
How much is it to fix the cv joints ins a car?
what is the average i should be charged to change the cv joints (%26quot;constant velocity%26quot; joints for a vw passat 02')?
How much is it to fix the cv joints ins a car?
more then likely it would be cheaper or just a bit more to replace the whole drive axle
How much is it to fix the cv joints ins a car?
about 40 to 50 pounts 4 the joint and about 30 to 40 to fit it
Is it just the CV boot? You can buy a CV boot kit for under $30 bucks.... not that hard to replace... with a Clifton Manual...
How much is it to fix the cv joints ins a car?
more then likely it would be cheaper or just a bit more to replace the whole drive axle
How much is it to fix the cv joints ins a car?
about 40 to 50 pounts 4 the joint and about 30 to 40 to fit it
Is it just the CV boot? You can buy a CV boot kit for under $30 bucks.... not that hard to replace... with a Clifton Manual...
What causes the CV joint boot to tear?
I have to change the whole drive shaft of the fron passenger site because of the boot. What is the cause? How can it be prevented?
What causes the CV joint boot to tear?
The CV joint will inevitably tear. It's made out of rubber. When rubber gets wet - then dries, it will begin to degrade. Plus turning left/right (even though the boot is formed into an %26quot;accordian%26quot;) will slowly work at breaking down the rubber boot. Eventually - like all things made from rubber, it will become brittle and crack.
It's unfortunate that when they go you typically need to replace the whole front axel-shaft. But - it happens. I've heard that if your replace CV joints before they crack - they can replace the boot on-axel. However I've never had it done myself.
I guess CV joint damage prevention would consist of: Not driving on wet/salty roads, putting a rubber-stabilizer on the outside of the boot (although I think they already do this), re-apply said stabilizer regularly, make the boot of a more durable material, only drive in straight lines, drive in warm weather (where rubber is most maliable).
What causes the CV joint boot to tear?
possibly hit something in the road or someone has damaged it while working under the car. BUT BESIDES THAT THEY DO GET OLD
heat dirt old age rubbing something
dont have to replace whole axle but just not knowing how long its been bad and how much dirt as got on joints is a good thing to do
but can just buy a cover boot and replace that sometimes all need to do is remove the tire
not a hard job to do at home with most cars just a few nuts or bolts axle pop out with a few good tugs cant really stop it just have to keep a eye on repairs they all go bad
just wear and it dries out. you might try what i do. i spray silicone spray on my boots. it repels water and keeps them soft so they don,t dry out. i did that for years.hair dryer hair ideas
What causes the CV joint boot to tear?
The CV joint will inevitably tear. It's made out of rubber. When rubber gets wet - then dries, it will begin to degrade. Plus turning left/right (even though the boot is formed into an %26quot;accordian%26quot;) will slowly work at breaking down the rubber boot. Eventually - like all things made from rubber, it will become brittle and crack.
It's unfortunate that when they go you typically need to replace the whole front axel-shaft. But - it happens. I've heard that if your replace CV joints before they crack - they can replace the boot on-axel. However I've never had it done myself.
I guess CV joint damage prevention would consist of: Not driving on wet/salty roads, putting a rubber-stabilizer on the outside of the boot (although I think they already do this), re-apply said stabilizer regularly, make the boot of a more durable material, only drive in straight lines, drive in warm weather (where rubber is most maliable).
What causes the CV joint boot to tear?
possibly hit something in the road or someone has damaged it while working under the car. BUT BESIDES THAT THEY DO GET OLD
heat dirt old age rubbing something
dont have to replace whole axle but just not knowing how long its been bad and how much dirt as got on joints is a good thing to do
but can just buy a cover boot and replace that sometimes all need to do is remove the tire
not a hard job to do at home with most cars just a few nuts or bolts axle pop out with a few good tugs cant really stop it just have to keep a eye on repairs they all go bad
just wear and it dries out. you might try what i do. i spray silicone spray on my boots. it repels water and keeps them soft so they don,t dry out. i did that for years.
How to change pass.side cv joint 96 honda civic ex 2dr?
All of the above are good answers but Duckie hit it on the head. Just follow his directions and you'll be in good shape. One other thing to do is make sure the car is supported on jack stands and will not fall off. In any type of repair always remember SAFETY FIRST. Good luck
How to change pass.side cv joint 96 honda civic ex 2dr?
If you want to do it safely and properly you should buy a haynes manual and at least have the manufacturers specs for bolt tightness for reference. If you really want to do it then look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTDblxDpy鈥?/a>
How to change pass.side cv joint 96 honda civic ex 2dr?
ok being a machanic for 20 years i can tell you this. Remove tire then loosen then axle nut in the center of the hub ( this requires a special socket ) and it is a bugger to remove. After the nut is loose but completely off ( run the nut to the end of the threads ) take a sledge hammer and a piece of wood, place the wood over the nut and smack it hard with the sledge ( this releases the axle from the hub ) t5hen remove the nut completly. Loosen the lower control arm, sway bar and any other components attached to the lower control arm, swing it out of the way while pulling the axle out of the hub assembly. place a pan under the axle and transmission. once you have placed a pan under the transmission, Take a pry bar and place it between the axle and transmission and pry it off. This takes a little fieness but it will pop off and there with be some fluid loss. Reverse the procedure when installing the new axle and besure to torque all bolts and the axle nut to specs I hope I was of help........
It's easy with a lift, air tools, and a ball joint separator. Without the lift it is inconvenient. Without the air tools (specifically an impact wrench) and ball joint separator tool (not a pickle fork!) it is a real beast. The axle nut is torqued to 180 ft-lbs and will have embedded itself to a much higher breakaway torque. A 3 foot breaker bar will still lift the corner of the car off the jack stand before the nut will let go. The source has some recommendations for separating the ball joint on the tie rod end so you can get the axle out.
2 Complex 2do it all on here get a book itwill pay for its self in less fustration in no time
How to change pass.side cv joint 96 honda civic ex 2dr?
If you want to do it safely and properly you should buy a haynes manual and at least have the manufacturers specs for bolt tightness for reference. If you really want to do it then look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTDblxDpy鈥?/a>
How to change pass.side cv joint 96 honda civic ex 2dr?
ok being a machanic for 20 years i can tell you this. Remove tire then loosen then axle nut in the center of the hub ( this requires a special socket ) and it is a bugger to remove. After the nut is loose but completely off ( run the nut to the end of the threads ) take a sledge hammer and a piece of wood, place the wood over the nut and smack it hard with the sledge ( this releases the axle from the hub ) t5hen remove the nut completly. Loosen the lower control arm, sway bar and any other components attached to the lower control arm, swing it out of the way while pulling the axle out of the hub assembly. place a pan under the axle and transmission. once you have placed a pan under the transmission, Take a pry bar and place it between the axle and transmission and pry it off. This takes a little fieness but it will pop off and there with be some fluid loss. Reverse the procedure when installing the new axle and besure to torque all bolts and the axle nut to specs I hope I was of help........
It's easy with a lift, air tools, and a ball joint separator. Without the lift it is inconvenient. Without the air tools (specifically an impact wrench) and ball joint separator tool (not a pickle fork!) it is a real beast. The axle nut is torqued to 180 ft-lbs and will have embedded itself to a much higher breakaway torque. A 3 foot breaker bar will still lift the corner of the car off the jack stand before the nut will let go. The source has some recommendations for separating the ball joint on the tie rod end so you can get the axle out.
2 Complex 2do it all on here get a book itwill pay for its self in less fustration in no time
How can you change the cv joints on a 94 nissan altima?
I need to change the front 2 because they make a clicking sound whe I turn my front 2 wheels
How can you change the cv joints on a 94 nissan altima?
Instructions with pictures on how to change the CV shafts.
Typically you don't change the joint's themselves but simply replace the entire shaft with a rebuilt one.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090…
How can you change the cv joints on a 94 nissan altima?
No, it is not a %26quot;simple%26quot; job...if you want to tackle it yourself, you need to buy a Haynes manual first, and follow the instructions carefully...you will also need some right size wrenches/sockets, as different vehicles use different size axle nuts for one...
not a difficult job but you do better to bring it to a shop-you need a lift and air tools and a big pry bar
Its not as hard as some might think. You will need a 34mm.or a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Then you take the key and nut off the lower ball joint.(17mm socket),separate the ball joint.(If that way is too difficult, then remove the 2 nuts and bolts that hold on the lower half of the strut.(17mm. socket) Slide the axle out of the spindle. Then take a pry bar and put it between the inner joint and the transmission, give a couple of quick jerks, and the axle will come out. Reverse procedure for assembly.
u have to remove the trans fluid the break apart thr lower ball joint and then u pull it out gently do the same for the otherside when u put in the new ones be very gentle with them cause they are filled with a sealed oil filedd boot and can breake pres or tap gently to get it in slowly then reverse the whole process gl and email with any question u might have
This is not an easy job. It will require breaking loose the axle nut which will be very tight and probably frozen. A shop might break it loose for you but if not you will want something like a 1” drive air hammer. The old 4’ breaker bar would do it too but be sure to break it loose before jacking up the car because even a properly supported vehicle can fall off the jack stands with that kind of torque. If you haven’t done work like this I would take it to a shop. If you want to think about it, look at the procedure in a manual, and then decide. I am about to perform this job on my Honda.
How can you change the cv joints on a 94 nissan altima?
Instructions with pictures on how to change the CV shafts.
Typically you don't change the joint's themselves but simply replace the entire shaft with a rebuilt one.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090…
How can you change the cv joints on a 94 nissan altima?
No, it is not a %26quot;simple%26quot; job...if you want to tackle it yourself, you need to buy a Haynes manual first, and follow the instructions carefully...you will also need some right size wrenches/sockets, as different vehicles use different size axle nuts for one...
not a difficult job but you do better to bring it to a shop-you need a lift and air tools and a big pry bar
Its not as hard as some might think. You will need a 34mm.or a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Then you take the key and nut off the lower ball joint.(17mm socket),separate the ball joint.(If that way is too difficult, then remove the 2 nuts and bolts that hold on the lower half of the strut.(17mm. socket) Slide the axle out of the spindle. Then take a pry bar and put it between the inner joint and the transmission, give a couple of quick jerks, and the axle will come out. Reverse procedure for assembly.
u have to remove the trans fluid the break apart thr lower ball joint and then u pull it out gently do the same for the otherside when u put in the new ones be very gentle with them cause they are filled with a sealed oil filedd boot and can breake pres or tap gently to get it in slowly then reverse the whole process gl and email with any question u might have
This is not an easy job. It will require breaking loose the axle nut which will be very tight and probably frozen. A shop might break it loose for you but if not you will want something like a 1” drive air hammer. The old 4’ breaker bar would do it too but be sure to break it loose before jacking up the car because even a properly supported vehicle can fall off the jack stands with that kind of torque. If you haven’t done work like this I would take it to a shop. If you want to think about it, look at the procedure in a manual, and then decide. I am about to perform this job on my Honda.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)