Tuesday, September 20, 2011

I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?

It makes noises only when i turn and not when the car is going straight. I would like to keep driving as much as possible before changing cause it expensive to change.?
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
this is what i tell my broke dick customers-lol It is not unsafe ,at worst you are gambling a towing fee and the inconvience of unplanned stop and unplanned repair,if female i add that you cannot chose the time of night or the neighborhood that you will be stranded in -then i offer easy credit and they think about it for a minute then say yeah,go ahead!
I own accord 93 and the CV joints are making noise when i turn left or noise. Can i keep driving like this?
its a few hundred to have changed at a shop, with new half shafts, not jsut rebuild, rebuilding is not recomended. Remanufactured would be the cheaper way of going (different then rebuilt, i don't want to go into that) and it will need to be done as soon as posible, or you risk breaking the axel on the joint. then you're going nowhere, and if you're moving at a good speed, the %26quot;whip%26quot; affect can sererly damage under hood componants within reach.
you wont hurt the car but you will continue to damage the bearing.

I would buy yourself a manual for that car and fix this problem yourself! It is very easy to do and you can do it for $20.00 or less. Dont pay a garage to do something this easy. If you dont feel good about doing it then find a friend to help you.
you can keep driving on it untill it breaks then you will not be able to go anywhere as you will loose your drive, and what he said the spinning halfshafts can do some damage! and the longer you leave it the more likely it is that something else will go wrong with it!
listen, only once.

first go to the local tire shop and get a newer tube, preferably one that has been pooped due to air pressure?get it? pop it. this will distort the rubber and cause it to work for you.

second cut 2 lengths so you can wrap the joint roughly 1.5 times more than 360 degrees. this is because you will not be looking at it (hahaha, no, its to make a greasy barrier to keep the dirt and grime away). actually 1 for each side.

now if you use compressed air and solvent to clean the cruddies out, with the front end off the ground, youll be able to turn it easily and check for outlandish wear through the whole spindle arc.(follow me? safety is important to me, but cv failure is gonna be either expensive to you ,ie;lowspeed, or high speed sling. each damaging your vehicle and maybe even you, but safe to the general public unless you sleep in the gutter)

now you use a black molly type of grease. i would uses a 40-60(60 red-eye) and pack the joint as full as possible and working it back and forth.

the last step is to drape the joint in a wadd of grease and wrap it with the direction of movement so you keep the dirt out.

this is a suggesstion. it is not right!!!!!!!!! it is not a cure, but it will get rid of the clack-ack-ack. now they do sale replacement dust boots! if you replace that and your bearings and seudo yoke/slipyokes are in good condition, problem solved.





in my opinion, about 85 % of the time the clacking cv is because its full of dirt. if its binding, then the clack-ack-ack comes from the diff. or 3rd member. on a transverse or fwd, the transmission and 3rd member are incorporated in 1 unit.

hey replace the cv, it'll let you inspect the passenger side stub axle and bearings.(long story about sides but 92%, passenger first)
That is a really easy fix. The half-shaft runs $60 from Autozone with a $37 core. You simply take off the wheel, pop the A-arm off, and pull out the axle, and replace. You CAN keep going until it fails, but its going to get REALLY loud. Once it fails, nothing will get it to move again until you replace it, except for a tow truck.
I would like to inform you that you have to change part of the velocity bearing. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Hatch and has the same problem. I ignored it and it damaged my bearing. Right now there is tremendouse stress on the bearing. Replacing the bearing will require machine pressing. Here in the Philippines labor is very cheap and replacement parts are cheap to because of our proximity to Japan. Change it ASAP and the problem will go away and also have the bearing checked. Good luck.
You can but you risk an even higher price if you break down on the road or by additional damage to other parts. The axles are ready to go at any time. By the axles yourself and then take them to a shop. That will save you some money if you can't do it yourself. Also if you do it yourself repack the wheel bearings with grease. Do not by the rebuild kit, for one they are more expensive that buying the reman axle. Also if it is making a grinding noise you have a bad wheel bearing not an axle. An axle will pop and bind.
its ur cv joint, need to be replace,it ok to driv it like that if u dont mind the noise when u turn,might cost u $300.00 on each side parts and labor
Look under the car at the axles and look at the outer boots, you will see your problem, probably on both sides, the boots will be ripped and you will see grease. If you have no mechanical ability, get it fixed asap. If you do it yourself, make sure that the spring clips on the halfshaft ends are locked into the differential, if not, you will be driving down the road thinking the problem is fixed and you will hear a pop and the car won't move no more. This means one of the axles popped out, and your car is not going to move cause it has an open differential. Okay im done rambling.
Yes. But they will just get worse and then your brakes will start wearing and your tires also.